The Backcountry hiker

Saturday 10th of June 2023

• Drive time from Christchurch – 2 – 2.5 hours.
• Walking time – 2-3 hours.
• Weather – Cold with blue skies.
• Hikers – Myself, Antonia, Barry & Nick.

It is another excellent weather weekend for a hike so I messaged a few of my hiking buddies to see who was interested in joining Antonia & I. Barry & Nick reached out to say that they were keen.

We planned to leave our house at 8:30am on Saturday, Nick was picking Barry up on the way & they got here slightly earlier.

We were all packed and in the vehicle before our scheduled departure. Stopping at BP Ravenswood for a coffee on the way. We drove to Culverdan & stopped at the bakery for breakfast & to grab a roll for lunch.

Arriving at Lewis pass car park just on 11am we could see at least another 15+ hikers (adults and children) getting ready to start walking. After Barry & I asked where they were heading (so we could avoid the masses) they told us that they would get to Cannabal gorge hut & see how they go. Leaving us with an unclear decision on what we are doing.

We started off just after 11am, walking initially on boardwalk & then descending through the Beech forest on a well graded track to the Cannabal gorge swing bridge. At this point the big group of 15 & two other ladies were just behind us.

After the bridge it was a gentle climb up to gain 100 metres before reaching the viewing area. The rest of the track was undulating from here crossing numerous slips & side creeks through permafrost before reaching the next swing bridge 600 metres shy of Cannabal gorge hut.

We then had a short sharp climb up through the beech forest before arriving into the clearing where the hut was in plain site. We could see the two ladies who passed us earlier sitting there having a late lunch. We also took this opportunity to have our lunch.

We then decided that since it looked like a nice spot to camp down by the river in front of the hut that we would. We set up camp, cut & gathered firewood from the dead trees down in the river (I had my electric chainsaw) & by 3pm after the sun had lowered enough for our spot to be in the shade we seen frost forming on our tents & gear!

It was a cold afternoon & evening, I managed to talk Antonia into claiming a bed in the hut & I would sleep in the tent alone, but also join the other 2 in tenting outside. We were all in bed by 7:30pm after hanging out around the fire trying to maintain warmth.

It was a long & cold night! I felt like I woke every hour from my cocoon with numb toes & cold knees. Ice had formed inside the tent & even on the outside of my sleeping bag. I would periodically check the temperature & it was generally around -5 to -6 degrees Celsius!

Once my alarm went off at 7am I got up & out of the tent glad that I had survived the night without it being too miserable.

I had left our cooking gear out on the picnic table overnight & it had formed ice crystals. Antonia joined me not long after from the hut & we had a coffee & breakfast before packing up & walking by 9am.

It was a cold walk out & it took until around 11am before the temperature had reached a toasty 0 degrees. We were at the car around midday & set back off towards Christchurch.

It was the coldest night in a tent I have experienced! What an adventure & definitely a memorable one at that. I’m actually looking forward to the next winter camping trip!

• Official kms: 26km
• Garmin kms: 26.68km
• Total time: 6.29
• Calories burned: 3221
• Body battery: 7/10
• Accommodation: bed in a bunk room at Nikau eco lodge.
• Tent nights: 5

The alarm was set for 6am this morning. I woke at 5.50am. I got out of bed & started to walk towards the bathroom, my feet are sore & swollen from all the road walking so it was more of a hobble.

Gokul & I shared a room last night & Caroline & Jon are 2 doors down in another room. They are aiming to leave at 7am. We are planning on 7.30am with the remainder of the crew. It’s just stopped raining, hopefully that’s the end of it.

We left at 7.40am & within a few minutes we reached the Whananaki footbridge. It wasn’t long after this we caught up to the earlier starters about 6km in.

I kept going from this point walking with Marko for a bit & then at about 9km in he stopped for his coffee. As for me I like to get a good 12 to 15km under my belt before I stop for a break.

I stopped at just after the 14km mark & sat down & chilled out for a 10 minute break. I then walked another 7km before the next.

While I sat having this break just after midday I realised I was only 5km from Ngunguru & that meant only about an hour from a hot burger & some chips! This was motivation to boost on to get lunch. About 45 minutes out I rang the takeaway shop & placed an order to be ready upon arrival. It was perfect to walk in there grab lunch & sit at the beach eating it!

Everyone else turned up within about an hour of me & joined for lunch which then became a swim & just hanging out as the boat ride wasn’t until 4pm.

At 3.30pm we left to walk the final 1.5km to the boat ramp where we were transported in groups of 2 to 3 across the estuary to Nikau bay lodge.

This is an amazing place, well set up for hikers with one of the best hosts! James is very accomodating & makes sure his guests are comfortable. He also goes through explaining the mornings low tide river crossings that we must do.

This means with tomorrows tides we must leave at 6am! On that note it’s bedtime with the alarm set for 4.30am!!!!

• Official km: 23km bypass
• Garmin km: 23.08km
• Total time: 5.35
• Calories burned: 2426
• Body battery: 9/10, awesome sleep.
• Accommodations: motel unit at Whananaki holiday park.
• Tent nights = 5 so far

Today I naturally woke up at 5.30am as it gets pretty light in the tent. After packing, breakfast & digging a hole for my toilet (rough camping) I was good to leave by 7.30am. Kevin left just before 7am & was one of the 1st to leave.

I went up to where Nici camped last night & waited a few minutes for her as she was tending to Gemma’s foot (nurse Nici is always helpful with everyone’s foot dramas) we were off around 7.45 & started with a straight up before meeting the farm track.

We bumped into the farmer along the track & thanked him for his generosity of the camp site & refilling the water container. He said it’s been filled 3 times this season & as it’s nearly empty again he should only need to refill it one last time.

After leaving the farm we turned right onto Kaiikanui road where we walked for about 8km on gravel road, it wasn’t long before Jason caught up to us followed by Florian & Joren (I am no good with spelling their names!)

After about 10km we turned left onto Whananaki north road & from this point we had about 10km of tar seal road to walk. It wasn’t until 14km of walking that we stopped for a break which was Nici, myself, Jason & Joren. Not long after Marko caught up to join us.

This was our first & last break today & about 6km before our destination we found Broken asleep on the side of the road. He then joined us for the last leg.

We got to Whananaki holiday park just after 1pm & went straight to the shop for takeaways, a coke & a bottle of cold water!

After a shower & washing, we went for a swim in the pool! So good! The afternoon was spent just hanging out with the crew, enjoying a beer that Broken bought for us all.

Tomorrow we have a 25km day to Nikau retreat, the last stretch will be a boat ride across the estuary. Hopefully with not too much rain.

• Official kms: 25.5km
• Garmin kms: 26.22km
• Total time: 8.42
• Calories burned: 4166
• Body battery: 7/10.
• Accommodation: Tent at campsite.
• Tent nights = 5

I was dreading my sleep in the tent last night. Surprisingly I slept fairly well, my air mattress did go down a bit but was still comfortable! I woke at 5.20am & just cruised the morning enjoying a flat white that you can purchase here at the farm for $5.

I received a text from my wife this morning about 6am wishing me happy birthday, I hadn’t realised it was until this point. I’m really missing Antonia the puppies & home. But need to keep focusing on the ‘why’ with this adventure!

The ‘why’ is because this is something I’ve always wanted to do & that I’m trying to make a difference & raise funds & awareness for mental health! #iamhope

It was just after 8am & Nici & I took off into the hot sun ready for an 18km road walk to Helena bay where we would then do 7km of track to our campsite.

It was 18km of tar seal roads at times with piglets running across the road, cows wandering road side & the occasional dog running out. We walked 14km before we stopped for our 1st break, where we were joined by Frank & Leah.

Once we got just over 18km we were at Helena bay & stopped & joined most of the crew for a leisurely lunch of just under an hour. For the 1st time I took my shoes & socks off & aired out my feet.

After lunch it was the 7.5km actual bush track walk to our camp spot. This was probably the slowest & toughest part of the trail for me so far & I am so glad I tackled it today & not as the start of my day tomorrow, as that 7.5km & then a 23km of road walking would’ve wrecked me!

After getting to camp 305 (just after the 300km 10% mark!) I set to filtering water as I had run out about a km before arriving & it was a hot strenuous day. At this point my water filter bag sprung a leak & Matt was kind enough to lend me his to fill up all my water supplies.

I called my wife Antonia at around 7am and chatted for a good half an hour & she was also able to order a Katadyn water filter for me & have that delivered to my dads as I plan to be there Friday night.

Dinner was had, a couple of games of Skip-Bo & then bed just before 9. I’m really looking forward to get to Whananaki early tomorrow, get washing done & go for a swim! Also have a nice cold beer with some of the crew.

• Official kms: 28km
• Garmin kms: 27.67km
• Total time: 7.19
• Calories burned: 3405
• Body battery: 8/10 well rested
• Accommodation: Tent at the farm
• Tent nights: 4

This morning was an early rise, I was up just before the alarm at 5.20am. Jon was already in the kitchen cooking bacon & eggs for everyone’s breakfast.

We had a ferry to catch at 7.20am. About 7am Caroline & I left to get to the terminal via a coffee shop. We caught up with most of the Tramily at the wharf, it was good to have the crew back again.

The Ferry ride was nice & quick & we were in Russell & walking before 8am. We had to walk 5km along the road before reconnecting with the trail & then a further 9km to a turn off on a gravel road that would lead us up to a 300 metre point before descending back down the other side.

I walked most of the day with Gokul & Marko & Nici caught us up at around the 18km mark where we sat down for lunch. We also met 2 other hikers Luke & Sam on the trail at this point.

After lunch Gokul decided to go for a push & we wouldn’t see him again until the Farm. Nici, Marko & myself walked the last 10km together to the Farm.

Arriving at the Farm we realised how busy this place is! They have a Yoga retreat on, someone’s farewell party & also someone’s birthday.

My airmat seems like it may have a slow leak but it could just be the temperature changed. It may be a crap sleep tonight, but hopefully not. I will let you know tomorrow. Off to camp 305.7km mark tomorrow. Jon, Caroline & Gokul are heading to a trail angels & doing a shorter day tomorrow & then doing a big day the following. I’m splitting it to a 25km then a 23km. Theirs is a 18km then a 30km.

• Official kms: 23km
• Garmin kms: 22.94km
• Total time: 5.31
• Calories burned: 2439
• Body battery: 7/10. Sore feet but doing well.
• Accommodation: 2 nights at an Airbnb in Paihia. Having a zero day tomorrow.
• Tent nights = still 3

Todays plan started with the alarm clock going off at 6am & for us to slowly get moving & leave by 8am. We want to get to the Airbnb by 2pm to get life admin (washing etc) done & out of the way so we can enjoy a zero day tomorrow without to much admin needed.

We left just before 8am after saying goodbye & thanking Andrew & Rosie for the use of their amazing cottage & hospitality.

It was only 500 metres down the road & we were straight onto the Kerikeri river track again.

Within a couple of kms we were at the Stone store & Kemp house & walked our way to Pa road.

After Pa rd Gokul & I took off & headed towards Waitangi Forest, at the beginning of the Forest Gokul stopped for a break & I decided to head on, I didn’t see the crew for the rest of the day as I powered on ahead. Just before the 12km point, Felix was sitting on the ground having a break so I joined him for my 1st break & a catch up as I hadn’t seen him since Mangamuka. He had had a zero day in Kerikeri yesterday.

I took off again after this & from that point I was solo hiking as I was on a mission to get to Paihia for a late lunch. That was going to be my next break, this was 10km later.

It was only 700 metres to the Airbnb from here so I walked around to it & arrived at 1.45pm where I called the host Margaret to check in. What an amazing place this is to spend the next two nights (another zero day tomorrow). I started cleaning my shoes & socks & emptying my pack & Gokul turned up not long after. Jon & Caroline were another half an hour behind. We all got showered, washing done & went supermarket shopping for tonight’s dinner & breakfast.

Dinner was amazing, bbq, salad, potatoes & a curry. We all ate together & felt very satisfied! And yes Stu, I am enjoying my cafe tour of the country! Lol.

Now I’m just having a couple of cold beers on the balcony, relaxing & reflecting on the mammoth effort so far. Jon has gone fishing, Gokul is watching live cricket & Caroline is chilling out. I’m looking forward to a zero day tomorrow. Oh & I have a Thai massage booked for the morning, apparently they are hard massages & not the soft ones I like! I hope I survive! Wish me luck……..

• Official kms 24km
• Garmin kms 29.10km
• Total time: 7.55
• Calories burned: 3942
• Body battery: 7/10.
• Accommodation: Sister in-laws parents cottage. Andrew & Rosie’s place.
• Tent nights = still 3

The alarm was set for 7am this morning, I awoke at 6am. I’m missing my wife Antonia this morning, more than normal. I also miss my 2 dogs, which I won’t see for at least a few months. Antonia will be joining me at Christmas, I’m really looking forward to that!

Just on mental health and well-being, one of the reasons I’m doing this, not only for me but to have some input into changing others lives for the better, you could be a part of that! Please donate if you can ⬇️

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

This morning we say goodbye to my sister & family, mum also as she will drop us at the start.

We jumped in mums camper just before 8.30am & arrived at our start point 15 minutes later. Mum dropped us off & we said our goodbyes. Was so good being able to spend some good quality time with mum & a huge effort in supplying the hikers with rides & lunches!

We took off just as the sky’s opened up & the rain jackets went straight on! It only lasted about an hour though & then it turned into a hot rainless day.

We walked a good 15km along gravel road before we hit some actual trail, this is the 1st time in the trail that we have had tracks. It’s here we stopped for some lunch, we were lucky enough to have some of mums yummy asparagus rolls & corn fritters!

We started off on this new trail & it soon turned to mud & made for difficult travel, it didn’t last too long though & we came across some nicely done steps before some pretty decent trail.

About 4km before our end point we hit Rainbow falls an attraction I have frequented before as Kerikeri is where I grew up.

We arrived just under the 8 hour mark to Andrew & Rosie’s place where they have been amazing to accommodate us for the night. Such a comfortable place, with such excellent hosts who even let us use the swimming pool.

To make life easier for the hungry hikers we ordered Domino’s pizza to be delivered to the cottage & devoured 5 pizzas between the 4 of us!

It was another fairly big day, feet are tired & am looking forward to bed! I am so grateful to Andrew & Rosie for this comfortable accommodation & their generosity. Tomorrow is supposedly 23km but I’m starting to lose faith in the TA App as todays 29km was supposed to be 24km according to the App. But let’s just see how we go.

• Official kms 0
• Garmin kms 0
• Total time 0
• Calories burned 0
• Body battery = 9/10. Excellent sleep & feeling well rested!
• Accommodation. Jodi & Keres house.
• Tent nights = still 3

Today was one of the 1st days I didn’t worry about alarms or schedules. But still managed to wake up 6.30am. Apart from Kere having getting up & leaving before I woke up, I was the first awake.

Today was a life admin day. Drying out all the wet gear from yesterday & reorganising for the next few days.

Jodi lent us her car & we took off into Kerikeri township just after 11 to pick up bits & pieces from Hunting & fishing, Rebel sports & some shopping at the local New World for tonight’s bbq. Then a quick bite for lunch at McDonald’s.

With today’s shopping we bought some more creamed corn, asparagus & white bread for mum & I took those down to her place & enjoyed a nice cup of tea. Mum made more corn fritters & asparagus rolls for all our lunches tomorrow. So looking forward to lunch tomorrow!

Later on in the evening we had a bbq, a big shout out to Ohaeawai Butchery for providing the hiking team with some of their tasty sausages!

It’s been amazing spending time with Jodi, Kere & my nephews & niece. Always awesome to spend time with family!

Looking forward to getting back on the trail tomorrow & doing an easy 24km to Andrew & Rosie’s cottage.

• Official kms: unknown as it’s still a detour.
• Garmin kms: 22.18km
• Total time: 5.19
• Calories burnt: 2358
• Body battery: 6/10, sleep was pretty average last night.
• Accommodation: Staying at my sisters house!
• Tenting nights count = 3.

I woke just before 6am this morning, my alarm was set for 7am. It felt like I spent a lot of time awake last night.

Today’s plan is to leave at around 9am, so I’m going to spend this morning just relaxing a bit & maybe having a couple of coffees.

I ended up taking off with Nicci at just after 8.30am, we ended up walking 12km before we decided to have our 1st break.

Today’s walk was consistently tar seal roads, occasional avoiding big logging trucks. We did another 5km before the next break, where we sat down & realised our spot wasn’t that great as it smelt like something had died there, but once the pack was off & we had sat down, it took a good 10 minutes to be able to move again.

It wasn’t long before we reached Mangamuka & the infamous dairy/takeaways where I enjoyed a hot pie, cheeseburger & a just juice bubbles (the trail hunger was real!) for a late lunch. My feet hurt more today than any beach day as 22km of hard sealed road has no give!

I sat & waited for Gokul, Caroline & Jon & once they had arrived about 45 minutes later & enjoyed an ice cream each, I contacted my sister to let her know that we were ready to be picked up.

We walked a further 800 metres down the road to Omahuta road to be picked up there as that is our starting point tomorrow. Not long after arriving, mum turned up to take us all back to my sisters place.

We had a great evening having boil up & just catching up! It is always good to see family!

Tomorrow mum is dropping us off where she picked us up from & we will spend the next 2 days walking through Puketi forest before being picked up at the other end to come back to my sisters.