The Backcountry hiker

Saturday 10th of June 2023

• Drive time from Christchurch – 2 – 2.5 hours.
• Walking time – 2-3 hours.
• Weather – Cold with blue skies.
• Hikers – Myself, Antonia, Barry & Nick.

It is another excellent weather weekend for a hike so I messaged a few of my hiking buddies to see who was interested in joining Antonia & I. Barry & Nick reached out to say that they were keen.

We planned to leave our house at 8:30am on Saturday, Nick was picking Barry up on the way & they got here slightly earlier.

We were all packed and in the vehicle before our scheduled departure. Stopping at BP Ravenswood for a coffee on the way. We drove to Culverdan & stopped at the bakery for breakfast & to grab a roll for lunch.

Arriving at Lewis pass car park just on 11am we could see at least another 15+ hikers (adults and children) getting ready to start walking. After Barry & I asked where they were heading (so we could avoid the masses) they told us that they would get to Cannabal gorge hut & see how they go. Leaving us with an unclear decision on what we are doing.

We started off just after 11am, walking initially on boardwalk & then descending through the Beech forest on a well graded track to the Cannabal gorge swing bridge. At this point the big group of 15 & two other ladies were just behind us.

After the bridge it was a gentle climb up to gain 100 metres before reaching the viewing area. The rest of the track was undulating from here crossing numerous slips & side creeks through permafrost before reaching the next swing bridge 600 metres shy of Cannabal gorge hut.

We then had a short sharp climb up through the beech forest before arriving into the clearing where the hut was in plain site. We could see the two ladies who passed us earlier sitting there having a late lunch. We also took this opportunity to have our lunch.

We then decided that since it looked like a nice spot to camp down by the river in front of the hut that we would. We set up camp, cut & gathered firewood from the dead trees down in the river (I had my electric chainsaw) & by 3pm after the sun had lowered enough for our spot to be in the shade we seen frost forming on our tents & gear!

It was a cold afternoon & evening, I managed to talk Antonia into claiming a bed in the hut & I would sleep in the tent alone, but also join the other 2 in tenting outside. We were all in bed by 7:30pm after hanging out around the fire trying to maintain warmth.

It was a long & cold night! I felt like I woke every hour from my cocoon with numb toes & cold knees. Ice had formed inside the tent & even on the outside of my sleeping bag. I would periodically check the temperature & it was generally around -5 to -6 degrees Celsius!

Once my alarm went off at 7am I got up & out of the tent glad that I had survived the night without it being too miserable.

I had left our cooking gear out on the picnic table overnight & it had formed ice crystals. Antonia joined me not long after from the hut & we had a coffee & breakfast before packing up & walking by 9am.

It was a cold walk out & it took until around 11am before the temperature had reached a toasty 0 degrees. We were at the car around midday & set back off towards Christchurch.

It was the coldest night in a tent I have experienced! What an adventure & definitely a memorable one at that. I’m actually looking forward to the next winter camping trip!

Sunday 12.02.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 1871
• Official kms: 0
• Garmin kms: 0
• Total time: 0
• Calories burned: 0
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Aunty Briars
• Tent nights tally: 14
• Zero days had so far: 16

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

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Pretty relaxed day today, I slept in until I was ready to wake up, surprisingly that was as late as 7am!

With this weather bomb coming through & a deadline of needing to be in St Arnaud before Monday the 20th, being in the mountains with the predicted big winds & rain would be unsafe, Wednesday would be the only viable time to re enter the Richmond ranges.

Unfortunately that would not give me enough time to get through by Sunday night & leave no wriggle room.

I have decided to still connect my journey & spend 3 days next week road walking around to St Arnaud, staying in Nelson with my Aunty until next Monday when my brother flys in & we will start Nelson lakes together.

I have done the Richmond ranges before so I feel I’m not missing out on it & I also know it would be dangerous to do some of those sections in anything but fine weather.

I went into Nelson to get a few things, including new shoes. I got these ones from the Shoe Clinic and they seem very comfortable!

After getting back & having lunch with Aunty B I even had an afternoon nap.

Cousin Narelle & Zhan turned up for dinner with the kids, it was good catching up with them & we had an amazing dinner!

Tomorrow Aunty B is taking me back up to the Hacket car park & I’m going to walk about 25-30km to somewhere past Wakefield & then take Tuesday off to sit out the bad weather.

It’s unfortunate that I’m missing this bit but I am happy that I have made the right & safe choice. It’s also made it easier having such an amazing Aunty that is putting me up for a week & going out of her way to drive me around & cook amazing dinners!

Saturday 11.02.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 1871km
• Official kms: 17.5 + 5.7km
• Garmin kms: 24.35km
• Total time: 9:45
• Calories burned: 3760
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Aunty Briars place
• Tent nights tally: 14
• Zero days had so far: 15

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

This morning I had my alarm set for 5:30am so I could get an early start as the first part of today is over 800 metres of elevation gain! I pushed snooze twice. Even though I fell asleep before 8:30pm last night, I felt I could sleep longer.

I got out of bed at 5:50am & went about my morning routine & was locked & loaded & out the door by 7:15am. After sweeping the hut out & wiping benches down of course.

After crossing the bridge the climb started instantly! Surprisingly it didn’t feel as hard as it did last time I did this section (2 years ago).

The time on the DOC sign said 5kms & 3 hours to Rocks hut. It took me 2 hours & 10 minutes! I was stoked with the timing as I seem to be doing them all in 2/3rds the time stated.

I stopped at Rocks hut for a good 20 minute break, ate an early morning tea, filled in the intentions booked & looked at the names who have been before me, some are people I have met along the way.

I set off again to finish the 200 metres of ascent needed to complete todays big climb. Knowing from last time that I needed to go through the fallen forest. This had been knocked over in a storm some years back.

It wasn’t long after this that I had gained the high point & started the descent which took you out into a clearing where there was some amazing views & also cellphone reception so I called Aunty Briar to let her know a rough ETA & see if it was ok for Sam to hitch a ride with us back into town. I also called Antonia for a quick catch-up before setting off into the trees again.

It only took another 1.5 hours from here totalling 4 hours to reach Brownings hut where I arrived just after 2pm for a late lunch break of over 30 minutes, eating, filling in the intentions book & reading my Maps app comments on the next few kilometres.

I took off again at 2:45, I had told Aunty B that I would be out before 5pm. The sign at this hut said it was 3 hours to the car park! I thought I better get a move on.

Antonia had told me on the phone earlier that there was going to be rain between 3 & 4pm & it could be heavy, I also had this in the back of mind. Luckily it didn’t eventuate.

The last 8km from Brownings hut out was fairly good, especially the final 5.7km part which was nice benched track. 2km before the end a lady named Tiffany with her dog Arlo walked with me to the carpark, it was nice to have someone to chat to & make the final kilometres disappear.

I arrived just a little after 5pm, Aunty B was waiting for me in the car park & Sam was sitting at a picnic table also. It was good to be out of this section for now! Boy do I need a shower!

After dropping Sam off & going back to Aunty B’s house, I got showered! Washing on & had an amazing dinner of Pork chops, corn, salad & mashed potatoes! Yum. We also had dessert, ice cream & peaches, so good!

Definitely looking forward to a zero tomorrow, lots of things & sorting needed. Like…. New shoes, yep I’ve wrecked another pair. It’s becoming an expensive exercise!

Friday 10.02.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 1853.7km
• Official kms: 27km
• Garmin kms: 28.46km
• Total time: 8:27
• Calories burned: 3393
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Middy hut
• Tent nights tally: 14
• Zero days had so far: 15

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

It’s always awesome to wake up in a real bed, this time at Woods & Laura’s. We left in convoy of 2 cars this morning as they were dropping me at Pelorus at 8am, leaving a car there & carrying on to Nelson for the day. Big thanks to these awesome friends not only for the bed & pick up but just the support!

The day started as an easy 14km of road walking, just before the end of that Alina & Ladina drove up behind me & chatted as they were being dropped off at the start of the trail. They had spent yesterday in Nelson organising their resupplies all the way to Arthur’s pass.

I caught them up again as I stopped for lunch at the Emerald pools, they had just had a swim & were taking off to Captains creek to get some kilometres done before they would stop for lunch.

After eating lunch I packed up & took off, as I started this section to Captains creek hut the sign said 3.5 hours! It was only 5km & I hoped I would be a lot quicker than that!

Well it only took me just over 2 hours so I was happy with that. The 2 girls were just packing up & taking off after having their lunch & fighting sandflies.

I decided to take this opportunity as an early afternoon tea break & said goodbye to them as I went down & sat in the hut away from the sandflies.

15 minutes later I took off, this time to my final destination for the day, Middy hut. This was also only 5km away, the sign said 2.5 hours. It was now 3pm & I was hoping to arrive around 4:30pm. It took just a little longer than that but I arrived at 4:40pm.

The 2 girls were in the hut having a break, their destination tonight is the next hut. They are considering joining me & my brother for the Nelson lakes section, I hope they do! After saying goodbye I took off down to the river for a swim, I was thinking I could be all alone at this hut tonight.

As I came back up to the hut Sam turned up! I hadn’t seen him since the Escarpment near Wellington. We just spent the rest of the afternoon doing typical hiking stuff such as dinner, filtering water, drying clothes etc.

It’s been another big day & I’m looking forward to my Zero day on Sunday. Just tomorrow to go! Also really keeping an eye on this weather to figure out what I’m doing next week.

Thursday 09.02.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 1826.7km
• Official kms: 34.2km
• Garmin kms: 34.62km
• Total time: 8:23
• Calories burned: 2933
• Body battery: 7/10 better sleep last night.
• Accommodation: Laura & Woods house
• Tent nights tally: 14
• Zero days had so far: 15

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

I woke early this morning, the plan is to leave Lester’s Bach at 7:45am so I can start walking around 8am. Such an awesome place to stay the night! It’s been so much fun to spend the last 3 days with my cousin! Looking forward to him joining me again at some stage!

We packed the car & were ready to go on time, although the car was pretty packed!

After being dropped off & saying goodbye I set off from outside the Queen Charlotte tavern at 8:10am. The Link track has been upgraded since I last was on it 2 years ago with only about 1km on the road. It looks like they have nearly finished completing it.

A bit further along & I was at another Milestone. The 1800km point on the trail!

About 13km in for today & I was in Havelock. I stopped at the local Foursquare for an early lunch, some electrolytes & more water before tackling the last 21km of mainly road walking.

The rest of the day was fairly boring & I spent a lot of it working out what I’m going to do if this weather bomb is going to hit early next week. So my plan so far is I will walk out from Hackets hut Saturday afternoon to do a zero at my Aunts in Nelson, if weather isn’t great I will road walk to St Arnaud from there during next week. This is mainly because my brother Mark is flying down Monday 20th to do Nelson lakes with me so I need to be there by then. Since I’ve already done Richmond ranges I don’t feel so bad missing them if I’m still walking around them, but I will make the call on Sunday after checking weather forecasts.

I managed to finish right on 4:30pm & Woods was waiting there to pick me up.

We went back to his place & Laura made some amazing hamburgers for dinner! It was really good to sit around this evening & catch up with them!

My plan tomorrow is to start at 8am, I have a 27km day into Middy creek hut & 13km is on a slower trail so I hope to be there by 5pm tomorrow.

Wednesday 08.02.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 1792.5km
• Official kms: 26km
• Garmin kms: 28.06km
• Total time: 8:06
• Calories burned: 3048
• Body battery: 6/10 bad sleep last night
• Accommodation: Lester’s bach
• Tent nights tally: 14
• Zero days had so far: 15

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

This morning we have a shuttle organised for 8am back up to the trail, this saves us walking up the road with 100 metres of elevation when it’s off the track anyway. We were ready at ten to eight an were shuttled up & started just before 8am!

The initial climb was just shy of 300 metres & we seemed to get it done pretty quickly considering we had full packs. The views as we gained elevation were amazing!

We went with the tried & tested break at every 5km point. This worked well for us. Stopping for lunch at just after 12 where we caught up with our two Swiss friends who we had been leap frogging for the past few days. We sat & had lunch with them.

Within just over a little more than 6 hours we were in Anikiwa, the caravan shop was open so we had a coke & I got a bottle of water each so we had enough for the final 7kms to the Queen Charlotte tavern.

We managed to get there just on 4pm, we also invited our two Swiss friends back to Lester’s Bach to stay & join us for dinner.

I resupplied my pack ready for the next 3 days as well as got some washing done. We had a wine & a nice meal, it was also a great place to watch the sunset.

Tomorrow I plan to walk to Pelorus bridge which is over 30km. Lester & the other two are off to Nelson as the two girls are doing a zero to resupply there & starting back at Pelorus bridge Friday morning.

Tuesday 07.02.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 1766.3km
• Official kms: 23km
• Garmin kms: 24.44km
• Total time: 7:31
• Calories burned: 3026
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Portage hotel
• Tent nights tally: 14
• Zero days had so far: 15

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

It was nice to have a comfortable bed & a good nights sleep. We are planning to start from here at 8:30am.

But we were both ready early so we set off at 8am. The start was an initial climb of 300 metres, it wasn’t an easy start but was good to get it done early before the heat.

We decided to take a break at around every 5km point today as we weren’t on any time schedule. This was good as it gave us plenty of time to relax throughout the day. 10 minute breaks with lunch being a 30 minute break.

It was a very hot & muggy day again, we were thankful for any shade we could get.

We stopped for lunch about 1pm & were thankful of having a picnic table & only 9kms to go!

After lunch it was 2kms to Blackrock campsite, where we stopped briefly to resupply our water as it was getting low.

From here we continued on without stopping to The Portage Hotel, the promise of a swim was too tempting to stop for our last break.

It wasn’t long before we had reached our destination & checked in just after 3:30pm. It was so hot that we went to the room, a quick unpack & into togs to get straight into the pool!

Dinner was booked for 6pm so we went down 30 minutes earlier for a beer before dinner. We also had a nice red wine with dinner before heading back to the room to prep for tomorrow & just relax.

Tomorrow’s another big day with around 29km to the Queen Charlotte tavern. We will be driving from here to Lester’s Bach but for those TA walkers that don’t know, if you buy dinner here you can camp for free!

Monday 06.02.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 1743.5km
• Official kms: 28km
• Garmin kms: 29.21km
• Total time: 7:41
• Calories burned: 3783
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Bed at Punga lodge.
• Tent nights tally: 14
• Zero days had so far: 15

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

We don’t have to catch the Ferry until 9:30 this morning so there was no rush to get out of the Airbnb. We had everything packed & left just after 8:30am & headed into town to find some breakfast to grab & go. Unfortunately it’s Waitangi Day & most places are closed. I settled for a pie & a V from the local 4Square.

We drove down to the Ferry where I said goodbye to Antonia & the dogs, I’m hoping to see her in less than 3 weeks when Mark & I will come out of the St James at Boyle village. It was amazing to have spent the weekend with her!

Lester & I proceeded to board the Ferry & it wasn’t long before we took off.

We didn’t land at Ships Cove until just after 10:30am, after sorting out my hiking pole malfunction where we couldn’t unlock them we were off around 11am.

The 1st 10km or so start with two 200 metre climbs, but the track gradient is amazing, so it’s a fairly easy climb.

After about 16km & 4 hours we had reached Furneaux lodge where we had a late lunch being 3pm. I treated myself to wedges & an ice cream. This would be our 1st & only break as we needed to do the next 12+kms to Punga lodge & get checked in & showered as we had previously booked dinner for 7pm. We promptly left Furneaux lodge at 3:30pm aiming to get to Punga by 6:30pm.

The next 12.5km seemed to drag on & my legs actually started feeling fatigued. 3 days off also does this to me, the last time I felt sore like this was leaving Whanganui after not walking for 7 days (5 day’s canoeing & 2 zero days). We managed to get in just after 6:30, check in, walk up 2 our rooms & get showered. Making our dinner reservation just on time.

The entrees looked so good that we both got 2 each for dinner with a ginger beer for me & a lemon lime bitters for Lester. It was amazing food & just enough!

It feels good to be showered, feed, talked to my amazing wife & lying on a nice bed! Tomorrow should be easier especially with starting walking earlier. We might even get a swim in tomorrow afternoon!

Friday, Saturday & Sunday 3/4/5.02.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 0
• Official kms: 0
• Garmin kms: 0
• Total time: 0
• Calories burned: 0
• Body battery: 10/10. Lots of rest, spending time with my wife & our doggies.
• Accommodation: Mikes then 2 nights in Airbnb Picton.
• Tent nights tally: 14
• Zero days had so far: 15

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

Having Friday, Saturday & Sunday off the trail has been very relaxing. Unfortunately I couldn’t change my Cook straight Ferry crossing from Saturday afternoon to any earlier so I felt like I was just killing time in Wellington until I arrived in Picton on Saturday night. Although I think my body appreciates it!

Friday was a very chilled day & I pretty much did nothing all day, just a bit of Netflix & then having a few drinks with Mike in the evening.

Saturday morning was similar, just packing & then Mike & I went to Lower Hutt for lunch before I went & waited at the Ferry terminal for my 3:45pm sailing. I spent the afternoon making videos & catching up & completing the North island section of this.

Antonia spent most her day driving up Saturday to Picton with our dogs to spend 2 nights with me! I’m so grateful, such a big trip for her & also the dogs!

After disembarking the Ferry just before 8pm & collecting my pack, Antonia was waiting for me just outside. I was so happy to see her & also our dogs waiting in the car.

We grabbed our takeaway dinner that we had preordered for 7:30 (half an hour late) & headed back to the Airbnb we have booked for the next 2 nights.

I spent Sunday morning supermarket shopping after Antonia & I went out for breakfast. Then it was back to the accommodation to sort the next 3 legs of the journey. Food for the Queen Charlotte, food from the end of there to Hackett hut & then food for the rest of the Richmond ranges.

At around 3pm we met Lester at the Queen Charlotte tavern had a beer then we went to his Bach to drop off the last two lots of food. He will drop the Richmond ranges food drop to Aunty Briars for when I come out of Hackett hut.

We then went back to Picton, had a nice dinner at the Thai restaurant, amazing meal & definitely recommend.

After getting back we sat around chatting then it was time for bed. Lester & I start the Queen Charlotte tomorrow morning & Antonia heads home with the dogs. I can’t wait to see them again in 3 weeks!

Thursday 02.02.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done:1715.3km
• Official kms: 13km
• Garmin kms: 14.10km
• Total time: 3:37
• Calories burned: 1184
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Mikes place
• Tent nights tally: 14
• Zero days had so far: 12

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

North island complete!!!!

Mike dropped me in town this morning as I stopped yesterday outside his car park. From here today there is only 13kms to go!

Not your typical trail start as I was weaving through hordes of people in the Main Street of town until I got out to the waterfront.

The trail followed the coastline for a few kilometres walking past Te Papa & other iconic Wellington landmarks.

Not long after, the trail headed up as it does, then shouldered Mt Victoria. I would have gone off course to the top but I have been there before.

The whole trail today followed pink markers that is known in Wellington as the Southern walkway. Which had two small climbs before descending down to the Southern coast.

After gaining the coastline I text my mate Lindsay to let him know I was about 25 minutes away, he text back to let me know he was already there waiting for me.

Lindsay walked the last couple of 100 metres with me to the finish line. Such a big milestone to reach the end of the North island!

Lindsay then drove me back into town where we had lunch & caught up. He also drove me to bivouac where I got a replacement air mattress! That’s right they have swapped my dud air mattress for a brand new one! After Lindsay ran me around to a few places he dropped me off back to Mikes where I got a load of washing done & just had a chilled afternoon.

I’m having the next 3 days off & catching the Ferry on Saturday where I get to see Antonia & our dogs! Really looking forward to that.

Just the 1310kms of South Island to go. Bring on the next stage!!!

Wednesday 01.02.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 1702.3km
• Official kms: 31km
• Garmin kms: 32.14km
• Total time: 9:47
• Calories burned: 3929
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Mikes house in Wellington.
• Tent nights tally: 14
• Zero days had so far: 12

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

It was an early ish start again today, my plan was to leave at around 7/7:30 but it was closer to 8am.

The day started with stairs & lots of them! I had a 400+ metre climb to do to start the day. It was hard work but also very rewarding!

Today involves 2 big climbs of 400 metres each & then a couple of smaller climbs before descending into Wellington. Once I had managed to get up all the stairs & gain the bush line the views here were spectacular!

Today was a big day but I think probably one of the best on the trail so far, the tracks were amazing the views were spectacular & it had just enough elevation to keep the heart pumping nicely.

There was a good mix of trail today, from well maintained track to sealed road, the whole spectrum! After descending Colonial knob the track zig zagged through a pine forest before coming out onto a road. There was 6km of road before the second big climb which was mainly 4wd track.

The second summit was a real treat with views on one side concentrated on the South Island & on the other central Wellington. Absolutely amazing! I must of sat there having lunch for close to an hour just admiring the views.

From here it was only about 12km to go so I set off down the skyline track until I reached the road at the bottom which lead me to Ngaio. There was a small amount of road walking before heading into the Trelissick park track following a stream down.

After following this & crossing the final bridge it was basically a 200 metre climb up & probably on the steepest bit of road I have been on yet! Weld street seems like they welded it from the top & just rolled it down the hill! Anyway, at the top of this the track diverted onto a nice trail just as it started to rain, so I put my pack cover on & raincoat on & continued on this well formed track.

It wasn’t long before this track led me back down to civilisation & then up & through the Botanical gardens, second time I’ve been here but still an amazing place & I am so glad the trail went through it.

The last part of the Botanical gardens takes you through the Bolton street cemetery before crossing over a bridge above SH1 & then right passed the Beehive.

I finished off wet & hungry so stopped at the McDonald’s on Lambton Quay & that was my end point for the day.

I’m spending the next 3 nights at Mikes, so awesome of him to put me up. Also tomorrow I’m finishing the North island off doing the last 13km or so then catching up with an old mate for lunch. Looking forward to have the North island complete & also thankful for such an amazing track & day today, it’s got to be one of my highlights so far.