The Backcountry hiker

Saturday 10th of June 2023

• Drive time from Christchurch – 2 – 2.5 hours.
• Walking time – 2-3 hours.
• Weather – Cold with blue skies.
• Hikers – Myself, Antonia, Barry & Nick.

It is another excellent weather weekend for a hike so I messaged a few of my hiking buddies to see who was interested in joining Antonia & I. Barry & Nick reached out to say that they were keen.

We planned to leave our house at 8:30am on Saturday, Nick was picking Barry up on the way & they got here slightly earlier.

We were all packed and in the vehicle before our scheduled departure. Stopping at BP Ravenswood for a coffee on the way. We drove to Culverdan & stopped at the bakery for breakfast & to grab a roll for lunch.

Arriving at Lewis pass car park just on 11am we could see at least another 15+ hikers (adults and children) getting ready to start walking. After Barry & I asked where they were heading (so we could avoid the masses) they told us that they would get to Cannabal gorge hut & see how they go. Leaving us with an unclear decision on what we are doing.

We started off just after 11am, walking initially on boardwalk & then descending through the Beech forest on a well graded track to the Cannabal gorge swing bridge. At this point the big group of 15 & two other ladies were just behind us.

After the bridge it was a gentle climb up to gain 100 metres before reaching the viewing area. The rest of the track was undulating from here crossing numerous slips & side creeks through permafrost before reaching the next swing bridge 600 metres shy of Cannabal gorge hut.

We then had a short sharp climb up through the beech forest before arriving into the clearing where the hut was in plain site. We could see the two ladies who passed us earlier sitting there having a late lunch. We also took this opportunity to have our lunch.

We then decided that since it looked like a nice spot to camp down by the river in front of the hut that we would. We set up camp, cut & gathered firewood from the dead trees down in the river (I had my electric chainsaw) & by 3pm after the sun had lowered enough for our spot to be in the shade we seen frost forming on our tents & gear!

It was a cold afternoon & evening, I managed to talk Antonia into claiming a bed in the hut & I would sleep in the tent alone, but also join the other 2 in tenting outside. We were all in bed by 7:30pm after hanging out around the fire trying to maintain warmth.

It was a long & cold night! I felt like I woke every hour from my cocoon with numb toes & cold knees. Ice had formed inside the tent & even on the outside of my sleeping bag. I would periodically check the temperature & it was generally around -5 to -6 degrees Celsius!

Once my alarm went off at 7am I got up & out of the tent glad that I had survived the night without it being too miserable.

I had left our cooking gear out on the picnic table overnight & it had formed ice crystals. Antonia joined me not long after from the hut & we had a coffee & breakfast before packing up & walking by 9am.

It was a cold walk out & it took until around 11am before the temperature had reached a toasty 0 degrees. We were at the car around midday & set back off towards Christchurch.

It was the coldest night in a tent I have experienced! What an adventure & definitely a memorable one at that. I’m actually looking forward to the next winter camping trip!

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 1515km
• Official kms: 30km
• Garmin kms: 31.19km
• Total time: 7:42
• Calories burned: 3809
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Whare o Moturimu hut
• Tent nights tally: 14
• Zero days had so far: 11

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

This morning is the last day of spending time with Danny & his family, it was kind of sad to leave! They have been amazing & we felt so welcomed & at home.

We were good to go at 8am after a coffee & pancakes! Danny dropped us off at the walking bridge in Palmy, where we finished on Thursday afternoon. The morning started with drizzle but not enough to have to put a raincoat on.

The awesome part of today was that it was mainly trail & hardly any road!

Nici & I walked to the 1500km (halfway!!!) point before stopping for our first break, lunch. This was the halfway point for the Te Araroa & today!

The day had turned from rain to hot & muggy, so I decided to have a short lunch & push on for a bit. About 7km later we ended up at the road end which was a carpark with a toilet & nice picnic area. We decided to have an early afternoon tea here also.

The last 8km was 4km of mountain bike track & 4km of gravel road / forestry road. We then arrived at the awesome little Whare o Moturimu hut.

It was just Nici & I there but was still early being 4:30pm. We both went down to the creek for a wash & to cool off & then back to the hut to organise stuff.

Just after 5pm two others turned up, but it only ended up being the 4 of us for the night. Nici decided to sleep in her tent & the 3 of us slept in the hut.

Looking forward to tomorrow, it’s only 15km to our destination so should be fairly easy.

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 1485km
• Official kms: 0
• Garmin kms: 0
• Total time:0
• Calories burned:0
• Body battery: 7/10
• Accommodation: Danny & Wendy’s
• Tent nights tally: 14
• Zero days had so far: 11

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

The day started nice & relaxing having a few coffees & chilling on the couch.

Around 10am Nici & I shot into Palmerston North to resupply on groceries. I got most of my stuff at Foursquare Super seven & the few extras I needed I managed to get at New World Broadway. This is to cover the next 3 day section away from civilisation & also a 5/6 day section after this in the Tararuas. we are leaving the later resupply in Palmerston North & collecting after the 3 day section.

Afterwards we parked up near the optometrist’s as Nici needed to organise new sunglasses. I walked around the corner to the local Bivouac & bit the bullet buying a new 3 litre bladder to replace the one I have as I have been searching for a bite valve for close to 1000kms (mine has a big split in it) I have now gone from an Osprey 2.5 litre to a Camelback 3 litre. I also purchased a new dry bag to replace one that was not fit for purpose anymore and also a new gas canister. The shop wanted to support my cause & gave me 20 percent discount. So amazing!

A couple of shops down was a sushi shop so I stopped to buy lunch while I waited for Nici’s appointment to finish. 4 hours being away, we were heading back to Danny & Wendy’s place.

Upon returning it was time to sort & pack supplies ready for the next stage. Making up breakfast packs & other bits & pieces. It was good to have this all done & out of the way early afternoon.

Once Wendy had finished work she made up an amazing cheese & cracker platter. Ross turned up & so did Kylie & Ari. We then had a bbq dinner with roast potatoes & garlic bread. Followed by an amazing dessert platter!

Big 30km day tomorrow so hopefully walk off some of this amazing food that Danny & Wendy have feed us! It’s been amazing staying with them & is a massive change to dehydration food & wraps! So thankful to have had stayed & catch up with them.

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 1485
• Official kms: 24.7km
• Garmin kms: 24.93km
• Total time: 6:07
• Calories burned: 2089
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Danny & Wendy’s place
• Tent nights tally: 14
• Zero days had so far: 10

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

I actually slept until my alarm went off at 6:30am this morning. I usually wake before it goes off by up to an hour.

Danny made pancakes & a coffee again. So good! We left the house just after 8 & were on the trail again leaving Feilding heading to Palmerston North.

There was some pretty good footpath for the first few kilometres running beside the road, more trail magic today as we found fresh Blackberries.

It wasn’t long before we got to Bunnythorpe & decided it was time for a pie & a drink being 10am.

After leaving Bunnythorpe there was actual trail for a few kilometres that went across some farmland via stiles. It was nice to be off the road for a bit.

We got to Palmerston North at about 11:30am & decided to have an early lunch at the local bakery. Pie number 2 a litre of Gatorade & a chicken thigh! So good!

After lunch we walked the suburban metropolis of Palmy for a few kilometres before dropping into the cemetery (yes the trail actually takes you through a cemetery!)

After this it was a causal stroll down the street before turning right & heading down to the Manawatu river which we would follow South for the rest of the day mostly in trees, it was good to have some shade.

About 3.5km before our finish point for the day, we came across some more trail magic, Hammocks! So we decided to have a another break, 15 minutes of lying there with the feet elevated & off the ground. It was amazing!

After finishing this comfortable break we walked the final few kilometres to where Danny, Jak & Cooper were waiting. Jak joined us for the final 50 metres & we all jogged up to the Ute.

Getting back to the house Wendy had made an amazing dinner of Pasta bake, a fresh salad & garlic bread. Uncle Ross joined us for dinner also. It was another nice chilled relaxing evening that also included a spa. We are having a zero day tomorrow to organise the next week. Looking forward to not walking tomorrow….

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 1460.3
• Official kms: 22.3
• Garmin kms: 22.4km
• Total time: 5:03
• Calories burned: 2126
• Body battery: 7/10
• Accommodation: Danny & Wendy’s place in Feilding.
• Tent nights tally: 14

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

Good sleep in again this morning, I got up at 6:30am. We aren’t planning to leave until around 9am & then Danny is driving us back to Bulls where we stopped yesterday to walk back to Feilding. I would like to get to the 1460km mark today so tomorrow is only a 25km day.

Danny made us breakfast before we left, pancakes. It was so good! They also made coffees as they have a proper machine that makes real flat whites.

We started the morning back in Bulls & within a kilometre there was a bakery & cafe so we stopped there to buy a roll for lunch with a Powerade & a coffee to takeaway. They have some quirky signs around the town so I had to stop & take some photos.

We started by walking down SH1 for 2km before turning off onto a side road. Luckily the bridge had its own walkway as this was a busy stretch of road.

Once we turned off it was a nice quiet road for a while & then turned onto a nice stretch of gravel for a few kilometres.

We walked for a total of 10.5km before stopping for lunch at Mt Lees reserve. I had my Powerade & my roll & then after about 15 minutes of sitting down I decided to start off again as I was ready to go. Nici stayed back for a longer break.

It wasn’t long before a Ute pulled over & my Uncle Ross got out & walked across the road to greet me, not long after this Danny & the kids turned up, they also offered me a cold can of Coke!

After a quick catch-up I was off again on a sugar high, which seemed to last me the last 8km! Danny then picked Nici & i up & we headed back to their place.

It was nice to finish & be back at Danny & Wendy’s place by 3pm & spend the afternoon just cruising & putting the feet up. Such awesome hosts who have really made us feel at home. I hope one day I can return the favour!

Tomorrow we have a 25km day & then will do a zero day on Friday to resupply for the Tararuas. It’s going to be a big week starting this Saturday so will need to get prepared.

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 1438
• Official kms: 31km
• Garmin kms: 32.67km
• Total time: 8:54
• Calories burned: 3660
• Body battery: 7/10 sore legs but slept well
• Accommodation: Danny’s house (cousin)
• Tent nights tally: 14

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

So, after the 4 patches in my air mattress I think I may have another hole or 2! It was fairly flat this morning. I was awake at 5.30, packed away my sleeping gear & got changed. The group of 3 that turned up yesterday around 5pm were almost ready to leave. They told me their normal start time is 6am to get some walking done before the heat of the day, makes sense.

I was ready early, so while I was waiting for Nici I sat up on the platform messaging Antonia. She is back at home working from her office. The dogs are also with her. They sleep on the couch beside the desk. I miss our puppies.

We started walking just after 8:15am & had a 14km walk along the beach to start with. We were lucky with the weather as it was sunny but with a nice sea breeze.

After the beach walk we followed a 4wd track a few kilometres inland before jumping over a locked gate (yes that’s the trail) onto a gravel road, that whole time we were looking for shade to have some lunch, as soon as we had left the beach the temperature seemed to rise a lot! We finally found some pine trees to sit under.

I took my shoes & socks off while having a break, it was so hot that my feet needed airing. Lunch was wraps with Antonia’s left over salami & cheese with Aioli. That salami made it all the way from Taumarunui 2 weeks ago, pretty much unrefrigerated. Hope it agrees with me!

From lunch the last 16km was tar sealed road walking, not normal seal either, the real sticky stuff with the tar sticking to your feet! It was a 30 degree day & I was consuming a lot of water. About an hour after lunch I found what we call trail magic! There was a farm sprinkler sprinkling water onto the road. I went straight into it pack & all and let myself get soaked, it was so good!!!

Another hour went by & it was time to find some shade & have a break. Sitting there I finished all my water & so did Nici. We still had 6kms to go in this heat so we decided to door knock for water. As we walked up the first driveway a young man seen us & asked ‘are you after some water?’ I asked ‘how did you know?’. He responded with ‘we see you guys walking up the road everyday so assumed that was what you needed’.

He let us fill up our water, we thanked him for helping us out & we were back on the road.

I was in contact with my cousin Danny who is picking us up & let him know we will be in Bulls at around 5pm. About 2km out he pulled over to say hi & gave Nici & i a cold can of coke each before heading back up the road to our stopping point. The last 2km seemed to go pretty quickly & we were finished just after 5pm having done just under 33kms.

We got back to Danny & Wendy’s & they were so accommodating. Offered to wash our clothes, cold refreshing drinks & just relaxing. They live close to farmland & can get a few flys, they have this salt gun & it is so much fun using it.

Wendy cooked us a beautiful dinner of burgers & chips & we sat there having a few cold beverages until 10pm! Quite a late night for a TA walker but was a good night!

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 1407km
• Official kms: 34km
• Garmin kms: 34.26km
• Total time: 9:19
• Calories burned: 3459
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Tent at campground
• Tent nights tally: 14

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

This morning the alarm went off at 4.30am. We need to leave around 6am to get to the tidal crossing by 2pm today. It’s about 34km from here to that point.

We left right on time at 6am & started walking alongside the Whanganui River before crossing over it at the main bridge.

Once across it was a steep ascent up many stairs to get up & onto the hill. The views back down seemed amazing!

After leaving the streets up here it turned pastoral & was sealed road, about 10km in Nici realised she had left her pack cover back in the motel, she called the motel & managed to get it located, she then rang the lovely people who she had been staying with who picked it up, bought it out to us with a pie & an L&P each! Such a nice morning tea!

We then headed west after this & it was about 13km later we got to another milestone! 1400km of the TA done. Only 1600km to go!

After taking a few photos we walked about a kilometre to find a nice shaded spot for lunch. My legs & feet were aching at this point so as I sat down I took my shoes off to air my feet. Standard lunch today, wraps with crushed up crackers, tuna & aioli.

It was only 7km to go from this point, so we set off to get to the tidal crossing. I have never felt so slow as I did at this point, it’s amazing how 7 days off the legs (due to 5 days rowing & 2 zero days) does to your hiking fitness.

We finally reached the crossing & it was 3 hours after the low tide. It was easier than we thought, being shin deep, but very muddy soft bottom, I sank in knee deep at one point.

It was great to get to the camp site at just after 3pm, get set up. Have a hot shower for only $2 & have a cruisy evening. My body needs this after today!

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 0
• Official kms: 0
• Garmin kms: 0
• Total time:0
• Calories burned: 0
• Body battery: 7/10 Antonia has gone home.
• Accommodation: Motel in Whanganui
• Tent nights tally: 13

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Day 62: Saturday 14th of January.

This morning Antonia & I walked down to Mud Ducks for breakfast, checked out the local markets & then walked back to the accommodation to collect Antonia’s pack before walking back to the bus depot.

Antonia’s bus left at 11am. I definitely feel low now that she has gone. I started missing her within minutes.

After the bus left I walked across the bridge to Riverview Foursquare to resupply for the next 4 days. An old work mate use to own this but sold up a few years back.

After resupplying I caught up with Nici who is staying back to walk with me, I am so grateful to have a walking buddy! And also caught up with Tim.

Nici went to look at some art gallery’s & Tim & I went to a local pub & played a few games of pool before heading back to the Motel where we had a few beers & still managed to be in bed by 9pm.

Day 63: Sunday 15th January.

Slow day today, just hung around the Motel sorting & organising before heading into town to catch up with Nici. I managed to call Antonia on Eves phone, it was so good to hear her voice! I needed that phone call today. I also spoke to my dad & to my cousin Lester who will try & join for some South Island sections of the journey.

Tim is going to hitch to Wellington today as he’s going to fly home to Australia. With his feet & knee playing up he has decided to go home & come back next season to do the South Island.

Tim & I walked into town & had lunch with Nici, then we said our goodbyes to Tim as he’s hitchhiking to Wellington.

Nici & I went to the cinema & watched Avater which was on from 2pm & finished after 5pm. We then walked back to the motel, had an easy dinner of wraps & I took off to bed early ready for a 6am start tomorrow.

We have a 34km day which includes a tidal crossing on the last Km low tide being 12pm. Hence the early start.

Looking forward to getting back on trail & closer to home!

• Activity: Canoeing then 6km walk
• Te Araroa kilometres done: 1373km
• Official kms: 43km
• Garmin kms: 37.91km canoe & 5.96km walk
• Total time: 5:44 canoe & 1:08 walk
• Calories burned: 2131
• Body battery: 9/10 great sleep!
• Accommodation: Motel in Whanganui
• Tent nights tally: 13

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

What a great sleep last night, I didn’t wake up until the alarm went off at 7am. We made corn fritters for breakfast had showers & packed up our barrels then headed down to the Canoe.

The river has dropped close to a metre but still seems to be flowing ok. We have a 37km row down the river to do & may have to fight the incoming tide as high tide is at 2.30pm. But we will try.

The 1st 25km was easy, stopping only once about 12km in for a 5 minute break, we were going at a great pace down the river. It wasn’t until the last 10km that we felt the affects of the tide. At best with a lot of effort we could get to 5km an hour. At this point I rowed without stopping as I was determined to get to the ramp around 3pm.

We did manage to get there at 3pm & we were both glad to be done! We untied everything & repackaged all our gear.

Before carrying our stuff up to the road I contacted a taxi so Antonia could get a ride from there to our Motel, her toes are still looking infected from the road walking a week back.

I walked with my pack that only had water & a few snacks in it the 6km down the road, as it’s still part of the trail. Stopping into the local Foursquare for Savlon for Antonia & a few other supplies as it was on route.

I was at the Motel just on 5pm. It was great to get there, Antonia was showered & looking happy to be finished also.

After a quick shower & getting the washing started we walked into town to catch up with Tim & Nici for a beer & pizza. Marko turned up not long after. We also caught up with Kevin, Michael, Ayumi & Nichola up at the Japanese restaurant before heading back to the motel to finish off some life admin & get ready for a well deserved sleep.

I’m doing two zero days from tomorrow, to reorganise, resupply & rest the body. Antonia catches a bus & is heading home. The rest of the group start walking again, so I will be alone for a few days, hoping to catch up. Fingers crossed!

• Activity: Canoeing
• Te Araroa kilometres done: 1330km
• Official kms: 15km
• Garmin kms: 15.85km
• Total time: 2:15
• Calories burned: 480
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: cabin at Rivertime lodge
• Tent nights tally: 13

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

It rained overnight last night & also the cabin people who were in their 50s & 60s decided to throw a party in the cabin next to where we were all tenting with loud music, singing & yelling. This was until the owners came & told them to turn it off & respect the other campers. We all clapped & cheered from our tents.

Surprisingly I still got good sleep as it went quite from 10pm & I awoke at 6.30am.

No rush this morning as we only have a 3 hour canoe to our cabin for the night.

We left at 9.30am. The river had risen about a metre overnight & the flow was fast!

What was supposedly to be a 3 hour trip took just over 2 hours with minimal effort.

We arrived at our accommodation at just before midday. What an awesome place this is, especially having a cabin with ensuite. After 3 wet nights in a tent this is bliss.

The day was spent drying clothes & tents, organising food, sorting gear & just relaxing. Getting ready for our last day on the water tomorrow down to Whanganui.

If the river levels stay high enough, the tides shouldn’t affect us & we should be able to get there in 6-7 hours from this point (37km). We will just have to wait & see what tomorrow brings.

• Activity: Canoeing
• Te Araroa kilometres done: 1314.5
• Official kms: 39km
• Garmin kms: 41.19km
• Total time: 7:02
• Calories burned: 2005
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: tent at camp site
• Tent nights tally: 13

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

There was rain last night & a bit of wind, we both slept quite well though. The river levels haven’t seemed to have risen either.

We were packed & ready to go just before 9am. With the ever looming 50/50 rapid’s coming up we ensured everything was sealed & tightly secured to the the raft.

We also had Tomas & Bohan who are staying at the same place tonight & we are paddling with them. It was so awesome to convoy together for the day.

We had managed a few easier rapids & then the 50/50 was about 45 minutes in. Tomas & Bohan went 1st. We sat back & watched. They seemed to be doing ok, then just after the last rapid they tipped out!

Next it was our turn, there were 3 main waves, we got through the first & then the second & then the third, as we came through the third, we seemed to spin quickly & the inevitable happened! We were tipped out again.

With two upturned Canoes & 4 of us in the water we couldn’t help but laugh as we drifted downstream & finally made it to the bank on the right after collecting the stuff floating that wasn’t tied down, mainly from Thomas & Bohans Canoe.

We bailed out the canoes, re tied everything back down & set off down stream again. Stopping only for a quick lunch break as it started raining & that would be the theme for the rest of the afternoon.

We had some more fairy decent rapids but managed these fairly well. Arriving at our destination around 4pm where it was raining & we had to set up the tent. At least there was a shelter here & hot showers!

There was a few more of us tonight & we spent the evening talking about our experiences on the river before going to bed at just after 8pm.