The Backcountry hiker

Saturday 10th of June 2023

• Drive time from Christchurch – 2 – 2.5 hours.
• Walking time – 2-3 hours.
• Weather – Cold with blue skies.
• Hikers – Myself, Antonia, Barry & Nick.

It is another excellent weather weekend for a hike so I messaged a few of my hiking buddies to see who was interested in joining Antonia & I. Barry & Nick reached out to say that they were keen.

We planned to leave our house at 8:30am on Saturday, Nick was picking Barry up on the way & they got here slightly earlier.

We were all packed and in the vehicle before our scheduled departure. Stopping at BP Ravenswood for a coffee on the way. We drove to Culverdan & stopped at the bakery for breakfast & to grab a roll for lunch.

Arriving at Lewis pass car park just on 11am we could see at least another 15+ hikers (adults and children) getting ready to start walking. After Barry & I asked where they were heading (so we could avoid the masses) they told us that they would get to Cannabal gorge hut & see how they go. Leaving us with an unclear decision on what we are doing.

We started off just after 11am, walking initially on boardwalk & then descending through the Beech forest on a well graded track to the Cannabal gorge swing bridge. At this point the big group of 15 & two other ladies were just behind us.

After the bridge it was a gentle climb up to gain 100 metres before reaching the viewing area. The rest of the track was undulating from here crossing numerous slips & side creeks through permafrost before reaching the next swing bridge 600 metres shy of Cannabal gorge hut.

We then had a short sharp climb up through the beech forest before arriving into the clearing where the hut was in plain site. We could see the two ladies who passed us earlier sitting there having a late lunch. We also took this opportunity to have our lunch.

We then decided that since it looked like a nice spot to camp down by the river in front of the hut that we would. We set up camp, cut & gathered firewood from the dead trees down in the river (I had my electric chainsaw) & by 3pm after the sun had lowered enough for our spot to be in the shade we seen frost forming on our tents & gear!

It was a cold afternoon & evening, I managed to talk Antonia into claiming a bed in the hut & I would sleep in the tent alone, but also join the other 2 in tenting outside. We were all in bed by 7:30pm after hanging out around the fire trying to maintain warmth.

It was a long & cold night! I felt like I woke every hour from my cocoon with numb toes & cold knees. Ice had formed inside the tent & even on the outside of my sleeping bag. I would periodically check the temperature & it was generally around -5 to -6 degrees Celsius!

Once my alarm went off at 7am I got up & out of the tent glad that I had survived the night without it being too miserable.

I had left our cooking gear out on the picnic table overnight & it had formed ice crystals. Antonia joined me not long after from the hut & we had a coffee & breakfast before packing up & walking by 9am.

It was a cold walk out & it took until around 11am before the temperature had reached a toasty 0 degrees. We were at the car around midday & set back off towards Christchurch.

It was the coldest night in a tent I have experienced! What an adventure & definitely a memorable one at that. I’m actually looking forward to the next winter camping trip!

• Activity: Canoeing
• Te Araroa kilometres done: 1275
• Official kms: 31.5km
• Garmin kms: 32.69km
• Total time: 5:31
• Calories burned: 1082
• Body battery: 7/10
• Accommodation: Ngaporo camp site
• Tent nights tally: 12

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Waking up in Mangawaiiti camp site there is so much bird song! I rose out of the tent at 6am, Antonia then rolled over onto my airmat within seconds.

After getting organised, having breakfast & repacking everything we were down at the Canoe just before 9am with all the gear, then proceeded to tie everything down.

We were off just after 9am, today had some great scenery & a couple of nice rapids to go down. Antonia & I stopped about 12km in for a quick snack & toilet stop. Other than that, our breaks were had sitting on the Canoe.

There was a point after Tieke where the water was wide & very slow, so it seemed to take forever. But within 5 & a half hours we were at our destination for the afternoon/evening.

We were so happy that this campsite wasn’t a big climb up like the previous night & we were only the second couple to arrive.

After setting up we made Corn fritters for a late lunch & relaxed & enjoyed the view.

By the end of the afternoon there was only 10 of us in total camping here. It was a nice change to the 40 or so the night before. Six of us sat in the shelter chatting, I had a few glasses of wine & then by 8pm we had all retired to our tents.

Tomorrow we face the 50/50 rapids. It’s named this because only 50 percent make it through without capsizing. Fingers crossed we are in the 50 percent.

• Activity: Canoeing
• Te Araroa kilometres done: on TA detour Canoeing Whanganui river.
• Official kms: 47km
• Garmin kms: 48.47km
• Total time: 7:14
• Calories burned: 2270
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Tent at camp site
• Tent nights tally: 11

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

The canoe company turns up about 9.30am this morning, you would think that means a sleep in. No not for my body clock, alarm set for 7am, awake before 6am. As soon as it gets light I naturally wake.

The positive means I can just chill & have a few coffees.

Antonia & I started walking down to the boat ramp at just before 9am to wait for the Canoe company to turn up. We sat & watched some of the other Canoe companies give instructions to their clients before ours turned up & we got given our 4 x 30 litre & 1 x 60 litre drum to pack with all our food & gear.

Once this was done we loaded up the canoe, tied everything down, got signed off that we knew what we were doing & then took off down the river.

Big day today as the timing says 9 hours to our camp site & we didn’t start paddling to close to 11am.

Antonia & I started off ok, learned how to paddle together, how the Canoe manoeuvres & how to stay stable. Well it started off this way until about 12km where we hit some rapids, got spat out sideways, tried to re-enter but didn’t quite straighten up & boomfa next thing we knew, we were in the water floating down the rapids, holding on to our upturned Canoe & paddle. It took a good 10 minutes before we were able to make it to shore.

Once we reevaluated the situation, we realised my hat was gone, but also Antonia’s cell phone with her drivers license, credit cards & eftpos cards!

Everything else seemed ok though, we tipped the Canoe back over & started bailing water out, 2 passer bys in another Canoe came to our rescue & helped bailing & aided us back in until we could get to a gravel beach to re tie everything back in, have lunch & dry out.

The next 38km seem to go by without any other incidents, I think we have learnt our lesson & we are getting much better at it.

Not a lot of photos today (only GoPro ones) as my phone was in a waterproof drum.

We managed to get to camp just after 6pm, tie the Canoe up & carry our 5 drums & packs up 50 metres or so (2 trips) to the campsite.

Being wet & exhausted, we set up the tent, got changed, ate chips for dinner & here we are ready for bed.

Hope tomorrow we stay afloat, fingers crossed 🤞!

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 1215.7km
• Official kms: 24.7km
• Garmin kms: 25.14km
• Total time: 4:58
• Calories burned: 2108
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Whakahoro hut
• Tent nights tally: 10

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

This morning after a nice breakfast from Sharon I am heading off 25km down the road to Whakahoro. Antonia is getting a ride at 8.30am from the Canoe hire company down to Whakahoro so will be at the end waiting for me.

We were lucky the other night to secure 2 of the beds in the 10 bed bunk room as someone must of cancelled so we snapped it up. It’s raining again so makes life easier than tenting.

I set off just after 8.30am & walked the 1st 7km of tar seal road before getting to the point where the final 18km was on gravel.

There was some old historic buildings & sites along todays walk.

The weather was good & the walking was easy, so today I decided to just pump out the kilometres & walked the whole 25km without stopping, hence getting it done in under 5 hours.

Once I reached the campsite, Antonia & I had lunch before realising that the cafe was open! After lunch & around 2:30pm we headed up to the cafe for a flat white & a couple of ginger beers, Kevin & Michael had just arrived & were eating lasagne.

Marko turned up not long after & bought the last ginger beers to share with the rest of the group.

Everyone had turned up by 4pm & we just spent the evening relaxing, getting ready to be on the water tomorrow!

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 1191
• Official kms: 27.5km
• Garmin kms: 28.29km
• Total time: 7:49
• Calories burned: 2403
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Campervan at Trail angels
• Tent nights tally: 10

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

This morning we are leaving National park at 8am & walking 27km to Sharon’s place (trail angels). Without amazing people like Sharon, the Te Araroa would not be possible for most.

Trail angels can offer as little or as much as somewhere to pitch your tent & toilet facility to a bed, shower a meal & a lift & much more all for a Koha (donation) they are usually right beside the track, some aren’t & will come pick you up from a trail end. It is definitely a part of the trail & is always amazing to meet these generous, caring people.

Before leaving this morning I stepped out of our accommodation & only 20 metres away was an amazing breakfast & coffee cart. I had to get a Flat white to start my morning off.

We set off just after 8am. It wasn’t long before Marko had caught up to the back of us. He looked like a new man after having shaved a day back.

Next came Frank & then Kevin, Nici & Michael.

After a few kilometres we managed to catch back up to Marko, Frank & Michael who had earlier gone ahead, they were having a break, so we sat down & joined them, the views here were amazing.

This part of the track was spectacular & I was glad Antonia was here with me to see what the good parts are all about.

We spent the first half of the day playing leap frog with the Tramily as they were having breaks etc. At around 12.30pm we decided it was time for lunch. At this point Kévin, Ayumi & Nichola had caught up & joined us for a lunch break.

After lunch we had an 11km gravel road walk to do, Antonia’s feet were suffering through this & to make matters worse, the heavens opened up & we got soaked. It was at this point we just walked until we got to the trail angels, where we had previously booked their campervan, this was only $30 each, with use of the toilet & shower, wifi as well as breakfast included. Pretty good deal really.

The rest of the afternoon was spent relaxing & getting ready for tomorrow. Antonia is considering hitching tomorrow to make it easier on her as she is nursing 6 blisters! I don’t blame her & think this is probably a good idea. I will walk the 25km & see her down there.

I probably won’t be able to post a blog for a few days as we are about to spend 1 day walking to the Whanganui river & 5 days Canoeing down it with little to no reception.

Stay tuned…..

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 1163.7
• Official kms: 20.7km
• Garmin kms: 21.48km
• Total time: 7:15
• Calories burned: 2520
• Body battery: 8/10 my right leg is not playing ball! Bruises everywhere.
• Accommodation: Plateau lodge
• Tent nights tally: 10

This morning we decided to sleep in until 7am & leave at 9am. I woke up at 6am, damn body clock!

Buffet for breakfast this morning, we were up there & getting into at just after 7am. It was really good. Bacon, poached eggs, hollandaise sauce, hash browns etc. & a coffee.

Today is Antonia’s 1st official day on the trail, meaning shes packing everything into her bag & we are walking the 20km to National park. About 14km on trail & the rest on the main road.

We left earlier than we scheduled. Hitting the trail at 8.30am. The first 6km was nice easy walking track & then after turning off from Whakapapaiti stream it turned into tramping track, but was still generally pretty good track.

Just before the road walking started we got to Mangahuia campsite. This would be an awesome place to camp, a few toilets around. A nice shelter with sinks & taps. We stopped here for lunch & there were some of the other TA hikers I have met on the trail having lunch here also, so we had a quick chat to them. They were heading NOBO (north bound) to try & get over the Tongariro crossing tomorrow & had connected the trail by jumping ahead and getting those days done before returning back to try the crossing.

After lunch it was only a 7km road walk to our accommodation. Antonia started to get sore feet, I know how she feels as that was how it was for me after the first 4 weeks of beach & road walking. I’ve only just recently gotten used to it.

It didn’t seem to take long before we reached National park, stopping in at the local Foursquare to pick up some meat & veges for dinner before continuing on about 1km to our accommodation for tonight.

We spent the afternoon/evening getting a load of washing done, cooking dinner & now time to relax & for Antonia to put her feet up (literally!). We have a 27.5km day tomorrow, mainly gravel road & some track. Looking forward to another day on the trail with Antonia. 😁👍🏼

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 0
• Official kms: 0
• Garmin kms: 0
• Total time: 0
• Calories burned: 0
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Skotel in Whakapapa
• Tent nights tally: 10

This morning we are in Taupo & are being picked up at 10am from our Motel & taken to Whakapapa. Tomorrow we both start walking & it will start with a nice trail then road through to National Park.

We were picked up right on schedule from our unofficial Uber (cashy) & dropped outside the Skotel in Whakapapa at just after 11am, unfortunately we couldn’t check in until 3pm so we got our luggage stored & headed to the food cart that’s in the village for lunch.

We sat there eating lunch & having a coffee, then Frank appeared who had spent the night at the DOC hut on the mountain & then Nici also showed up, they joined us for lunch.

Nici was meeting Luke (the man from DOC locating Kiwi chics on the 42 traverse) at 12.30pm to assist in releasing a young kiwi chic back into the wild & Luke had messaged earlier saying that we could come & see the chic if we liked.

It’s really awesome the amazing work that people like Luke do to protect our Flora & Fauna for future generations! Nici & Luke left to release the young chic & Antonia & I headed to the visitors centre to fill in some time.

In the Visitors centre we met a lovely lady called TC who chatted to us for a good 20 minutes & had such great information, she told us about a young man who tried to traverse yesterday & almost fell off the mountain due to really bad visibility & how people need to take the warnings seriously because they know the mountain very well & what conditions are considered dangerous. TC also donated to my Givealittle. Such an amazing person.

After having a look around & watching a 50 minute video on volcanoes we wandered up to the Skotel to check in as it was 2.30pm.

We managed to get into our room at 2.45pm, the afternoon was spent making my next video (so time consuming!) & then eating from the bar at the Skotel, pro tip book well in advance as we couldn’t get a table until 8.15pm, that’s nearly bedtime!

Antonia & I start back on the trail tomorrow with loaded packs & no rental car, back to being true TA walkers!

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 1143
• Official kms: 0
• Garmin kms: 19.46km
• Total time: 4:20
• Calories burned: 1647
• Body battery: 7/10 I have a sore right shin today
• Accommodation: Motel back in Taupo
• Tent nights tally: 10

Today is a Nero (nearly zero) as it should be under 20km of quick easy road walking. I was meant to be walking from 1105 to 1117 today (a definite Nero) & then doing the Tongariro crossing tomorrow, but the weather in the mountains has packed in & all shuttles & tour operators have cancelled. That means I get to Whakapapa via the road a day early, allowing for an extra day off tomorrow!!! So good!

Antonia & I will come back at some stage in the future & do the crossing together.

We have to drop the car at the airport before 4.30pm In Taupo today so I’m aiming to be finished in Whakapapa by 1pm. I’ve decided an 8am start should easily allow for this.

Antonia had me at the start point & I was ready to go by 8.15am. It was drizzling slightly & the wind was quite strong at times.

The walk today covered just over 13km on SH47 before turning off to Whakapapa & was 6km of tar sealed road here also. Nothing exciting today, I just stuck one of my headphones in & powered through the walk.

Within no time it seemed, I had reached Whakapapa & it was only a little over 4 hours before getting to the main centre. Coming up the road you could see the Chateau Tongariro for about 2km before you were in front of it.

Fun fact: My great uncle laid the stone at the Chateau Tongariro back in 1929 when he was Minister of Health. A.J.Stallworthy. This was my finish point for the day, just on 12.30pm.

Antonia & I then drove to Turangi for some lunch, before driving to Taupo where we are staying tonight. We have now dropped off the rental car. Tomorrow we are catching a ride back to Whakapapa to have a zero before donning full packs & walking 3 days to Whakahoro where we will start our 5 day Canoe adventure! Hope this weather holds out & am looking forward to a restful day tomorrow.

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 1105.4
• Official kms: 30.4km
• Garmin kms: 31.28km
• Total time: 9:14
• Calories burned: 3645
• Body battery: 7/10
• Accommodation: Motel in Turangi
• Tent nights tally: 10

This morning we had to pack up from our Airbnb. We spent 4 nights here so have been able to treat it like home. It’s been such a great base for the last 4 days.

On the road just before 7am heading to Owhango to collect Nici before continuing on the dirt road 5km to our drop off.

We were right on schedule & set of at 7.30am, for a change it was a fairly cool start, Nici even stopped to put a jersey on.

The scenery for the 1st 14km was beautiful. With colourful flowers, the occasional stream & river & just being in the bush.

At about our 14km point, Frank was sitting there waiting. He had decided to wait for us so we could all navigate the slip together. It wasn’t too bad really, with careful footing & making sure we didn’t go too far up or down to line up the road on the other side.

As we were finishing the slip, the DOC Ranger we had bumped into earlier who’s monitoring young Kiwi chicks was also coming across. He has 2 young chicks on this side of the slip to check out. The cool thing is Nici got to help him & is going back Thursday to spend the day helping.

After continuing on, I bumped into a NZ couple who I hadn’t seen before also doing the TA. Both from Auckland & also Purests (walking every inch without hitching). We stopped for lunch but they carried on.

After lunch (I had to fend for myself today as there is no way that little white car would’ve made it to here) we connected to the Coker track which was a narrower quad bike track that ran for 10km before getting back onto the road.

Another milestone today, we reached the 1100km point on the trail.

Not long after 4.30pm I met up with Antonia just off SH47. My end point for today & tomorrows start point.

Unfortunately the Tongariro crossing is too dangerous to do over the next few days due to gale force winds & we had it scheduled for Thursday. This means I’m going to road walk the 20km to Whakapapa tomorrow & then have a zero day on Thursday as I was originally going to do a 12km tomorrow & then the crossing to Whakapapa the following day.

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 1075km
• Official kms: 28km
• Garmin kms: 28.46km
• Total time: 6:32
• Calories burned: 2894
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: last night in the Airbnb Taumarunui.
• Tent nights tally: 10

5am alarm this morning, we need to be at the Canoe place at 6.45am for the briefing & to load our supplies. We are also picking up Marko & Frank at 6.30am on the way through.

After the briefing I am aiming to get to where the road ends on the 42 traverse track, Antonia is picking me up from there. This should be around 28km & am hoping to start at around 8am.

Well, after the briefing finished we loaded the barrels with the food, payed & organised our plans, it was then close to 9am before I was able to start.

I said goodbye to Antonia & set off, firstly on a tar seal road & then it turned to gravel. About 5km in I had an ostrich following me up the fence line.

I continued walking at what I felt was a fairly good pace averaging around 5km an hour, at about the 12km point I had caught up to Simon, a school teacher from Auckland who was on his 3rd year section hiking the trail doing around 3 weeks each year. I had met him before on the timber trail a few days back. Not long after Nici caught up & I continued walking the rest of the day with her.

Antonia was meeting me for lunch again today & it was around the 19km point where we seen the car. Today was an ice block, chicken & chips as well as a cold coke. So good! It’s such a privilege to have her doing this to help me!

After lunch it was only 9.5km to our finish point. 4.5km to Owhango & then another 5km to get to k marker 1075, our end point. Nici walked with me & at the end Antonia was only 3 minutes behind us to pick us up, taking Nici 5kms back to her accommodation, where we will pick her up in the morning to join me doing the 42nd Traverse tomorrow. We will start back at 1075km point.

Tomorrow we are leaving here just before 7am & we will need to pack the car up as we are staying in Turangi tomorrow night. Nici & I are starting at 7.30am, Antonia will then drive back to Owhango & pick up Marko, who wants to do the Tongariro crossing tomorrow while the weather & visibility is good. He’s been really looking forward to the crossing for weeks so we definitely understand why he’s wanting to do it tomorrow.

Anyway not much else to report today. Sitting here, fed, showered & packed ready for tomorrow. I might even consider an early night!

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 1047km
• Official kms: 0
• Garmin kms: 0
• Total time: 0:00
• Calories burned: 0
• Body battery: 9/10
• Accommodation: Airbnb in Taumarunui
• Tent nights tally: 10

Big sleep in this morning. I woke just after 7am, mainly due to the reason we didn’t get to bed until 10pm!

Today is an admin day. Organising & purchasing what’s needed to take to the Canoe hire at 6.45am tomorrow, where will do the briefing & load our waterproof barrels ready for when we hit the water on the 9th. This means taking shelf stable food, but we can get away with some luxuries such as chips & wine.

After deciding what was needed & making a list for the next 12 days of food we went in to the local New World (it’s been in a temporary location for the last 15 months) & purchased everything required. The new store is due to open on the 24th of January & looks like it will be quite impressive!

It seemed half of the customers at the store was our group, who were also resupplying for the Canoe section.

After getting back to our accommodation it was time to sort what was needed for the Canoe, the next few days & the 4 days of hiking that Antonia will join me on in a couple of days.

Not much else today apart from relaxing & recovering. 28km planned for tomorrow after the briefing & will be our last night at this awesome spot. It’s also looking like the weather is going to be cooler so that’s great!