The Backcountry hiker

Saturday 10th of June 2023

• Drive time from Christchurch – 2 – 2.5 hours.
• Walking time – 2-3 hours.
• Weather – Cold with blue skies.
• Hikers – Myself, Antonia, Barry & Nick.

It is another excellent weather weekend for a hike so I messaged a few of my hiking buddies to see who was interested in joining Antonia & I. Barry & Nick reached out to say that they were keen.

We planned to leave our house at 8:30am on Saturday, Nick was picking Barry up on the way & they got here slightly earlier.

We were all packed and in the vehicle before our scheduled departure. Stopping at BP Ravenswood for a coffee on the way. We drove to Culverdan & stopped at the bakery for breakfast & to grab a roll for lunch.

Arriving at Lewis pass car park just on 11am we could see at least another 15+ hikers (adults and children) getting ready to start walking. After Barry & I asked where they were heading (so we could avoid the masses) they told us that they would get to Cannabal gorge hut & see how they go. Leaving us with an unclear decision on what we are doing.

We started off just after 11am, walking initially on boardwalk & then descending through the Beech forest on a well graded track to the Cannabal gorge swing bridge. At this point the big group of 15 & two other ladies were just behind us.

After the bridge it was a gentle climb up to gain 100 metres before reaching the viewing area. The rest of the track was undulating from here crossing numerous slips & side creeks through permafrost before reaching the next swing bridge 600 metres shy of Cannabal gorge hut.

We then had a short sharp climb up through the beech forest before arriving into the clearing where the hut was in plain site. We could see the two ladies who passed us earlier sitting there having a late lunch. We also took this opportunity to have our lunch.

We then decided that since it looked like a nice spot to camp down by the river in front of the hut that we would. We set up camp, cut & gathered firewood from the dead trees down in the river (I had my electric chainsaw) & by 3pm after the sun had lowered enough for our spot to be in the shade we seen frost forming on our tents & gear!

It was a cold afternoon & evening, I managed to talk Antonia into claiming a bed in the hut & I would sleep in the tent alone, but also join the other 2 in tenting outside. We were all in bed by 7:30pm after hanging out around the fire trying to maintain warmth.

It was a long & cold night! I felt like I woke every hour from my cocoon with numb toes & cold knees. Ice had formed inside the tent & even on the outside of my sleeping bag. I would periodically check the temperature & it was generally around -5 to -6 degrees Celsius!

Once my alarm went off at 7am I got up & out of the tent glad that I had survived the night without it being too miserable.

I had left our cooking gear out on the picnic table overnight & it had formed ice crystals. Antonia joined me not long after from the hut & we had a coffee & breakfast before packing up & walking by 9am.

It was a cold walk out & it took until around 11am before the temperature had reached a toasty 0 degrees. We were at the car around midday & set back off towards Christchurch.

It was the coldest night in a tent I have experienced! What an adventure & definitely a memorable one at that. I’m actually looking forward to the next winter camping trip!

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 1047km
• Official kms: 30km
• Garmin kms: 30.92km
• Total time: 7:44
• Calories burned: 2719
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Airbnb in Taumaranui
• Tent nights tally: 10

It was good to get a relaxing afternoon & an early night last night. I am really looking forward to a zero day tomorrow! It’s also been awesome having my wife Antonia with me as she has made things a lot easier for me when I’m not hiking. I’m lucky to have such an amazing wife.

I’m planning on walking a 30km day today, then finishing off with a few beers with the Tramily for New Year’s in Taumarunui.

We are leaving at 7.30am so I can start around 8am & hopefully be completed by around 3pm.

Once we arrived at the start point we met up with Matt & Naomi, Matt has bad blisters so we offered him a ride back with Antonia to Taumarunui. They both obliged, I hopped out & they hopped in the car for the return trip.

Most of the crew had left the campsite at the start point except Marko, so we walked together for the 1st 15km on mainly gravel road, through farmland, following a rail line until we hit a small dairy at the 15km point.

The rest of the group were there already having a cold drink & an ice cream.

I didn’t stay long as I knew Antonia wasn’t far off meeting me for lunch. I left after 10 minutes & within 20 minutes had met up with Antonia who had delivered left over pizza & cold drinks! Another awesome car boot lunch break.

Some of the group walked past & I jumped back in & joined Nichola & her friend until Kevin caught up. Then we walked together for an hour or so until I needed to take off to reach my end point which was a bit further on than the group, my aim today is to do 30km to the Canoe hire place 3.5km past the main township where Antonia is picking me up.

I thought I would quickly pop into the Rusty nail pub at the end of town as Nici had arrived back in town to rejoin the group after being away for just over a week having a Christmas break.

Heading out of town over the bridge I watched a Canoe & a Kayak going down the Whanganui river. They made it look easy.

I quickly caught up with Jon, Caroline, Gokul & Tamara as they were driving past from being off trail doing the Round the Mountains great walk for the last 3 days. I’ve worked out that they will be 6 days behind me once they start the Whanganui & don’t think they will catch up unless I had a week off.

At 4pm (a bit slower today) Antonia was waiting at the end to pick me up, she is amazing! We went back to the Airbnb & had showers, something to eat & a bit of downtime before heading back into town, purchasing some beverages & joining the rest of the group for a New Year’s drink for a couple of hours. It was great just to hang out with everyone & I am glad that we got to do this.

We left just on 9pm & headed home for bed, when you are on the trail 9pm is considered bush midnight.

Zero day tomorrow (new year’s day) as I’m on schedule after a few bigger days & I can have a rest just to recover & reorganise & spend a day hanging out with Antonia.

Happy new year everyone, may next year be even better & bring you happiness & peace.

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 1017km
• Official kms: 41km
• Garmin kms: 41.29km
• Total time: 5:39
• Calories burned: 3087
• Body battery: 7/10 legs sore but no worse than yesterday.
• Accommodation: Airbnb in Taumaranui
• Tent nights tally: 10

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

This morning I’m planning to leave at around 8am & get this bike ride done. Antonia will be waiting at the end to pick me up. It’s supposedly 45km from here to there. I’m also going to go over the official 1000km point on the trail!

Camp Epic is definitely a nice place to stay, at night you have all the stars out & nocturnal bird life.

I set off at 8:10am & slowly started climbing within a few kilometres.

About 4km in I had reached the Maramataha bridge. The Maramataha Bridge is one of the longest and highest suspension bridges in New Zealand.

I then proceeded to climb a few 100 metres over the next 5km mostly pushing my bike up, before there was a nice gentle downhill. Just over 2.5 hours in I stopped at No. 11 shelter for a snack & to reapply sunscreen.

Not long after this I had reached another milestone. The 1000km point! This makes 1/3 of the trail being completed! Who would have thought at day 47 I would be here.

I stopped at a picnic table for lunch & Matt was sitting there, I hadn’t seen him or Naomi for a few weeks. About 4km ahead I also bumped into Naomi who was having a break in one of the shelters.

Number 10 Camp is one of the other places Te Araroa hikers can camp for the night on this trail. For those that are unsure & walking the trail the formal accommodation locations are – Ngaherenga to Bog Inn Hut (20km), to Piropiro Flats campsite (18km), to #10 campsite (21km), to the campsite at the Ōngarue terminus of the Timber Trail (17km), this will take you four days. Then into Taumarunui the following day (26km).

About 8km before the end of the trail is the Ongarue spiral. An impressive sight, it comprised a lower-level bridge, a very deep cutting, a curved tunnel, a complete circle of track and an over-bridge.

After getting out, I had Vaughan & Antonia come & collect me at the trail end, these guys are awesome & go out of their way to cater for Te Araroa trail users who want to cycle this section. Definitely worth using them.

After leaving the Timber trail bike HQ we headed into Taumaranui & gave Tim & Andrea a lift as they were headed that way also. After dropping them off we decided to go to McDonald’s for an ice cream as it was hot! 31 degrees & no breeze!

Back at the Airbnb we have rented for the next 4 days Antonia & I went for a dip in the Whanganui river as it’s situated right in front of our cottage. After doing daily admin (repacking, showering, washing, charging devices) we ordered pizza from the local pizza joint in Taumaranui & drove in & out to collect it. On the way back Antonia had to hit the brakes & her pizza that was on the back seat took a nose dive. Below is what happens to pizza that is left sideways!

Looking forward to an early night tonight & a 30km day tomorrow walking! No more bikes for me for a while I think!

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 976km
• Official kms: 37km
• Garmin kms: 38.81km
• Total time: 5:50 (cycling the timber trail)
• Calories burned: 3427
• Body battery: 9/10 well rested
• Accommodation: Camp epic glamping
• Tent nights tally: 10

This morning was nice to have a bit of a sleep in as we don’t need to be at the timber trail until 9.30am. This is what time the bike hire company turn up.

We got to sit around & have coffee & breakfast with Dean & Lesley before packing the car, getting a few supplies from the local Foursquare for the next few days & driving to the timber trail.

Once we arrived at the start of the trail we met up with some of the crew that I started with on day 1. Awaited for the bikes to arrive, just before 10am, got some information on the trail & what to be alert on, we were off just on 10:15am. Tim stuck with me for the 1st kilometre to make sure I was ok & new how to use the bike which I massively appreciated!

The 1st 5 kilometres was fairly flat & then the climb of over 400 metres began over the next 8km (very gradual) but as an inexperienced biker & muscles I haven’t used before, I pushed my bike most of the way up, in fact I did this for pretty much all ups today.

About 8km in I met a cyclist going fast towards me from the other direction, this was right on a sharp corner. I slammed my brakes on & went straight over the handle bars with me on the ground, the bike with the back tyre in the air & a very painful right thigh, my GoPro was in my right pocket & I landed on it (the GoPro & bike was fine). The rest of the day I have suffered with a very sore right thigh, which will bruise nicely I reckon (will take a picture in a few days)

Needless to say, I was very cautious for the following 32km & I put my GoPro in the day pack I had been supplied as I didn’t want that happening again!

The trail itself was beautiful & the downhill parts were fun! It would be a nice easy one to walk, with such good gradient, but would be a very long day due to the distance.

I got to Camp Epic just before 4pm, Antonia was waiting at our tent (Glamping). I sat down for 20 minutes just to recover as that was hard work! I much prefer hiking!

It was nice to get a hot shower an early dinner & just relax for the evening. Really hope my leg is ok tomorrow as it’s a 45km ride to the end! I think I will just push the bike on the uphills & ride on the flats & downhills.

Most of the group are leaving around 9:30am tomorrow, I’m considering leaving at around 8am just to get it done as I was a bit slower than the rest today. Let’s see what tomorrow brings!

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 939.5
• Official kms: 25.5km
• Garmin kms: 25.59km
• Total time: 6:05
• Calories burned: 2277
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Lesley’s (Antonia’s cousin) lodge in Mangakino.
• Tent nights tally: 10

Up & at ‘‘em this morning as we need to clear out the motel room & I’m wanting to start around 8.30am to get these 26km done & dusted to reach the start of the Timber trail.

We were on schedule & left the motel right on 7.30am & after just under an hour of driving was at my start point. After saying goodbye to Antonia (until lunchtime) i was off at 8.30am walking the next 14km of gravel road.

About 6km in I startled a sheep that was on the road, it then decided to walk ahead of me for the next 500 metres before veering off the road.

Not long after this I got my 1st glimpse of Mt Ruapehu in the distance.

Just before midday Antonia was parked up on the side of the road with sandwiches, sushi’s & a cold bottle of coke! Absolute luxury!

At this point the rest of the afternoon consisted of walking alongside SH30 before turning off to do the last 3km of gravel to the Pureora campsite area, where Antonia was waiting & where I will be starting tomorrow cycling the timber trail over the next two days. We caught up with Ayumi & Nichola quickly before driving to Mangakino to stay with Lesley & Dean at their Lodge.

After unpacking & cleaning up Lesley made us an entree of cheerios yum!

Dean & Lesley cooked an awesome dinner of steak & salad & we sat around relaxing for the evening & also having some powerful conversations on mental health! It’s great to be able to openly discuss this.

Such amazing hosts & was really awesome to stay in their lodge. What a cool spot!

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 914km
• Official kms: 32km
• Garmin kms: 35.75km
• Total time: 8.37
• Calories burned: 3354
• Body battery: 7/10
• Accommodation: Motel in Otorohanga with Antonia
• Tent nights tally: 10

This morning the alarm went off at 5.30am. We are leaving here at 7. Breakfast & coffee was had & making sure my bag was packed & ready.

I’m going to try & get a 30km day done today to get some distance & keep us ahead.

Antonia drove me to the New World in Te Kuiti which is my start point today, not long after arriving, Ayumi walked up & said hello before heading into the store for a resupply. And then Kevin wasn’t far behind either, doing the same thing.

I decided to head off as I need to get the distance done today. It started with a 2km walk through town before the start of the Mangaokewa river track. I followed this for just over 3km before getting to a broken bridge that I needed to cross to reach the road on the other side.

I decided today I would go the long way but faster way. Which was to follow the road for most of the day before reconnecting with the trail as I’ve been told that the river track is quite slow going & we have all our accommodation & plans booked & payed for up until the 14th of January. So I need to keep on schedule.

Just over 19km into today, Antonia turned up with lunch & we sat in the boot of the car having a cold drink & eating last night’s Chinese leftovers. It was such an awesome thing to have Antonia turn up for lunch in the middle of the day!

After she left i had a further 16km to do, so it was head down, bum up to get through it, with the last 8km being gravel road.

I finished at just after 4pm & just sat & chilled out while waiting for Antonia to turn up. (I also typed most of this blog!)

After being picked up it was straight back to the motel for a shower & get ready to meet up with Gokul, Tamara, Jon & Caroline who are staying at the same place, we are going to go out for dinner & catch up!

We got there 30 minutes earlier & ordered as we want an early night. It was a nice dinner, sharing stories & ideas & just in general catching up!

Back at the Motel now, ready for bed as we have to be up early, pack the car & aiming to leave at 7.30am. It’s been a very hot day & that sun has me beat! Let’s hope tomorrow is slightly cooler!

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 882.4
• Official kms: 14.4km
• Garmin kms: 17.19km (the map has changed again & there’s a new route)
• Total time: 5.18
• Calories burned: 2796
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Motel in Otorohanga
• Tent nights tally: 10

This morning Antonia & I are leaving her dads place after 2 really restful days & going to Tauranga to pick up a rental car, as well as buy some new poles, a bite valve for my Osprey bladder & a sleeping bag liner for Antonia.

After this we will drive back to Waitomo, Antonia will drop me off & I will walk the Te Araroa trail to Te Kuiti where she will pick me up.

We have the rental car for 10 days & Antonia will drop me off & pick me up each day & take me back to accommodation we have booked, this will make the next 10 days quite nice. As I will only carry what’s needed for the day making my pack lighter.

Update on my airmat, it had 4 holes in it! Hopefully this is now repaired & my next sleep on it should be good.

After collecting the rental car & picking up the hiking supplies we drove to Waitomo caves arriving just after 12, where we ate lunch before I started out just before 1pm.

It started off extremely hot, my Garmin Tempe gauge was registering over 33 degrees! This made the climb’s difficult!

Todays route was undulated, mainly through farm & over a lot of stiles.

I seemed to keep losing the track today & had to really concentrate on where the next marker was & keep looking at my maps. About 4km before Te Kuiti the Severe Thunderstorm warning that I had heard about that morning had reached above me. On went the raincoat & pack cover & then came the rain! I was drenched as it was not normal rain but extremely large & heavy!

It only lasted about 30 minutes or so before moving from above me, at this stage I was glad as the lightning seemed very close at times! The last climb took me 250 metres above sea level & was over 100 metres of elevation gain but the views down to Te Kuiti was worth it!

I walked the final couple of kilometres down to New World where Antonia was waiting to pick me up. We went to the local Chinese takeaways to grab dinner to take home & then set off to get out of my wet clothes & get organised for a 30km+ day tomorrow.

It’s bittersweet to be back on the trail, it was really good having a few days off & also spending time with Antonia & Phil. I’m glad Antonia is with me for the next few weeks & looking forward to doing Whanganui river with her.

Christmas!

Thanks for following my adventures. I will be off trail for the next 2 days returning the afternoon of the 26th. Stay tuned for future blogs. Have a merry Christmas!

It’s the time of year for giving & if you can, any support is much appreciated for this worthy cause, we can all be a part of changing lives for the better.

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

• 
  Steyning hut 4WD and hike.
  08.11.2025 – 09.11.2025 10km 4wd 7.5km hike. Total trip time in: 3 hours We recently traded our comfortable couches for mud and elbow grease as we set out on an… Read more: Steyning hut 4WD and hike.
• Snow-Dusted Serenity: A Last-Minute Adventure at Mt Robert
  Sometimes the best adventures are the ones that don’t go according to plan. This past week, I set out for what I thought would be a quick hut-bagging mission, but… Read more: Snow-Dusted Serenity: A Last-Minute Adventure at Mt Robert
• Tarn hut
  Saturday 26th August 2023 This is our first hike in about a month & had changed the plan Friday night to be Tarn hut from another hike as it seemed… Read more: Tarn hut
• Hawdon hut hike.
  Saturday 11th of November 2023 It’s been a while since we have been out for an overnight hike, so this weekend is the weekend to do! With the forecast showing… Read more: Hawdon hut hike.
• Cannibal Gorge hut camping.
  Saturday 10th of June 2023 It is another excellent weather weekend for a hike so I messaged a few of my hiking buddies to see who was interested in joining… Read more: Cannibal Gorge hut camping.
• Day 160: Awarua to Bluff (The end)
  Saturday 22.04.2023 Thank you for being a part of this journey with me. If you have enjoyed my blogs & if you are able to, please donate to the cause… Read more: Day 160: Awarua to Bluff (The end)
• Day 159: Zero day in Invercargill
  Friday 21.04.2023 Track me live here: I actually slept in this morning! I woke just before 8am. Today is a day of nothing but relaxing & reflecting on what I… Read more: Day 159: Zero day in Invercargill
• Day 158: Invercargill to Awarua
  Thursday 20.04.2023 Track me live here: My attempt to sleep in this morning was a failure. It’s something I’m not good at. I did potter around this morning though &… Read more: Day 158: Invercargill to Awarua
• Day 157: Riverton to Invercargill
  Wednesday 19.04.2023 Track me live here: My sleep was a little better last night but I’ve realised that I have Sciatica in my right leg, the description of this is… Read more: Day 157: Riverton to Invercargill
• Day 156: Zero day in Riverton.
  Tuesday 18.04.2023 Track me live here: I was in pain last night so took painkillers just to get some sleep. I’m glad this is almost over as I feel like… Read more: Day 156: Zero day in Riverton.

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 868km
• Official kms: 15.4km
• Garmin kms: 16.35km
• Total time: 4.18
• Calories burned: 1861
• Body battery: 7/10
• Accommodation: Father in-laws Matamata
• Tent nights tally: 10

Today is the last day of 9 days without a day off! I will be so glad when I get to Waitomo! Looking forward to rest & recovery! I have definitely abused my body physically & mentally, but this also shows how resilient I am.

As I sit here drinking my coffee, I’m reflecting on what I have achieved so far. 40 days & I will have walked a minimum of 868km (detours etc can add extra kilometres).

As I was good to go I set off at 6.45am, Gokul was nearly ready, but as he is faster & generally shoots off ahead while we are walking I decided to start.

It was a fairly pleasant walk today, a few patches of clay where good footwork was needed. Even then I fell on my backside twice.

There was no rain which was a good change & with most of the track being well formed it made for an easy 16km out. This only took just over 4 hours.

I was in Waitomo just on 11am, I went straight to the Tomo bar & eatery to get lunch & noticed a sign saying ’please remove muddy boots’ so I took off my gators, shoes & socks, then proceeded to go inside but the front door was locked. After checking their opening & closing hours it showed they don’t open until 5pm! Oops, here I was in bare feet & decided to walk shoes in hand & pack on my back to The twelve tables eatery. They were open! Powerade & a Boil up pie was in order!

It wasn’t long before Antonia & Phil turned up! So excited to see them. We sat down & I had lunch number 2!

We headed off back to Hamilton to drop Gokul at the train station so he could get to Auckland for the next few days for a Christmas break, then the 3 of us went back to Phil’s place in Matamata where I am taking the next 2 days off the trail for a Christmas break!

It’s been an afternoon of washing clothes & gear, re-sorting gear & catching up.

I’m back on the trail Boxing Day afternoon to do the Waitomo to Te Kuiti track & have the luxury of slack packing it for 10 days from here as Antonia joins me with a car to pick me up & drop me off.

It will awesome to spend the next 3 weeks together. Anyway, that’s it for me today.

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 852.6km
• Official kms: 26.6km
• Garmin kms: 28.07km
• Total time: 7.18
• Calories burned: 3188
• Body battery: 6/10 (2 days to go) need to recharge!
• Accommodation: freedom camping
• Tent nights tally: 10

I blew my air mattress up twice last night, 1 more night on it & I can have a solid sleep! Also at 2am this morning there was heavy rain, I stayed dry though so I am grateful for that!

We are being dropped back to our starting point this morning at 8am by our trail angel Casey. Only 27km today (haha I say only!) & it should be fairly easy walking as most of it is gravel roads.

We started off at 8.20am this morning, after 10km we walked straight passed the driveway we stayed last night.

After a further 6km we were diverted onto farm track. This was nice easy track & then went into a bush track. Not long into this section the sky’s opened up & a thunderstorm was directly above me. It was an odd day with sun on one side & a thunderstorm on the other! Needless to say pack cover & rain jacket were required.

After regaining the metal road I met up with Dave & Sam & walked with them the rest of the way. About 2km before our camp spot for the night we all filled our water bottles from a roadside creek as this was pretty much the last water we will see until 4km into tomorrow’s walk. We were at camp 852.7km mark by 3.30pm & got everything set up ready for a relaxing evening with a view.

Tomorrow is a half day. About 15km out to Waitomo where Antonia will be waiting at 12.30 to pick Gokul & i up!! So excited! I get to see Antonia, have 2 full days off & spend the next 3 weeks with her. It’s going to be like a walking holiday!

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 826km
• Official kms: 15.5km
• Garmin kms: 17.45km (gps wasn’t liking thick bush)
• Total time: 9.52
• Calories burned: 4563
• Body battery: 7/10 I need a day off!
• Accommodation: tent a trail angels
• Tent nights tally: 9

Woke up at 5.15am this morning, well really woke at 1am to blow my air mattress back up as I can confirm there is a leak! There was also a small pool of water from condensation down the end of my tent, so I packed away a damp sleeping bag. Then as I was packing stuff away a made a small tear in the tent (gear aid tape repaired that) hopefully that’s the end of my bad luck today!

We headed off just before 7.30am & I decided just to take my time today & enjoy the climb. I stopped for my 1st break after gaining the 600 metre elevation point. With the can of coke that Roger & Robyn bought with Kfc last night I stopped & had this & a muesli bar.

The rest of the climb was steady & steep in parts & was undulated until reaching the summit & the platform of Pirongia where Gokul, Lilly & myself stopped & sat down for lunch for a good 45 minutes.

After lunch it was a short walk to Pahautea hut another 30 minutes away, I stopped to take some photos & to refill my water for the next 6km section, the sign said 3-5 hours 🫣.

It wasn’t long before we had to steeply climb to the summit of Hihikiwi. Oh & some how the tip of my pole bent, so that wasn’t the end of my bad luck.

The rest of the track was steep up & down through mud. I think it took around 4 hours to do this 3-5 hour section, so not bad really. Once we exited the track we all sat down for a break. Gokul & I had a 2km road walk before being picked up & taken to our trail angels. The other 3 had a 9km walk to theirs. We said our goodbyes after stopping at our point & it wasn’t long before we were picked up. While waiting we seen & heard a thunderstorm not far from us.

At our accommodation we showered, had dinner, I called Antonia who is almost feeling normal after her second time having Covid. I’m looking forward to seeing her in a few days!!

Tomorrow we are leaving here at 8am & walking 26km to our freedom camping spot as there is no accommodation options unless we did a 40km day into Waitomo. I don’t think I’m up for that.