The Backcountry hiker

Saturday 10th of June 2023

• Drive time from Christchurch – 2 – 2.5 hours.
• Walking time – 2-3 hours.
• Weather – Cold with blue skies.
• Hikers – Myself, Antonia, Barry & Nick.

It is another excellent weather weekend for a hike so I messaged a few of my hiking buddies to see who was interested in joining Antonia & I. Barry & Nick reached out to say that they were keen.

We planned to leave our house at 8:30am on Saturday, Nick was picking Barry up on the way & they got here slightly earlier.

We were all packed and in the vehicle before our scheduled departure. Stopping at BP Ravenswood for a coffee on the way. We drove to Culverdan & stopped at the bakery for breakfast & to grab a roll for lunch.

Arriving at Lewis pass car park just on 11am we could see at least another 15+ hikers (adults and children) getting ready to start walking. After Barry & I asked where they were heading (so we could avoid the masses) they told us that they would get to Cannabal gorge hut & see how they go. Leaving us with an unclear decision on what we are doing.

We started off just after 11am, walking initially on boardwalk & then descending through the Beech forest on a well graded track to the Cannabal gorge swing bridge. At this point the big group of 15 & two other ladies were just behind us.

After the bridge it was a gentle climb up to gain 100 metres before reaching the viewing area. The rest of the track was undulating from here crossing numerous slips & side creeks through permafrost before reaching the next swing bridge 600 metres shy of Cannabal gorge hut.

We then had a short sharp climb up through the beech forest before arriving into the clearing where the hut was in plain site. We could see the two ladies who passed us earlier sitting there having a late lunch. We also took this opportunity to have our lunch.

We then decided that since it looked like a nice spot to camp down by the river in front of the hut that we would. We set up camp, cut & gathered firewood from the dead trees down in the river (I had my electric chainsaw) & by 3pm after the sun had lowered enough for our spot to be in the shade we seen frost forming on our tents & gear!

It was a cold afternoon & evening, I managed to talk Antonia into claiming a bed in the hut & I would sleep in the tent alone, but also join the other 2 in tenting outside. We were all in bed by 7:30pm after hanging out around the fire trying to maintain warmth.

It was a long & cold night! I felt like I woke every hour from my cocoon with numb toes & cold knees. Ice had formed inside the tent & even on the outside of my sleeping bag. I would periodically check the temperature & it was generally around -5 to -6 degrees Celsius!

Once my alarm went off at 7am I got up & out of the tent glad that I had survived the night without it being too miserable.

I had left our cooking gear out on the picnic table overnight & it had formed ice crystals. Antonia joined me not long after from the hut & we had a coffee & breakfast before packing up & walking by 9am.

It was a cold walk out & it took until around 11am before the temperature had reached a toasty 0 degrees. We were at the car around midday & set back off towards Christchurch.

It was the coldest night in a tent I have experienced! What an adventure & definitely a memorable one at that. I’m actually looking forward to the next winter camping trip!

Wednesday 05.04.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2777.5km
• Official kms: 26km
• Garmin kms: 28.14km (1.5km extra to hut)
• Total time: 7:31
• Calories burned: 2718
• Body battery: 7/10
• Accommodation: Kiwi burn hut.
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 28

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

I woke up about 4am to heavy rain & wind & was glad I was in a hut! I managed to fall back asleep & not wake again until 6:30am.

At about 8:15am I said goodbye to Jen & set off for the day. It’s just under 10km from here to the campsite following a 4wd track sometimes above the lake & sometimes around the lake.

I have another 28km day today to get to my destination of Kiwi burn hut. It was initially fast walking & by the time I got to the campsite just after 2 hours it started raining. I put my raincoat on & sat down at a picnic table for a 10 minute break.

After leaving again it wasn’t long before I got to the swing bridge south of North Mavora lake from here the rest of the day was basically in bush, it was also raining for most of this.

I didn’t stop for lunch until close to 2pm, that’s when there was a break in the weather & I could stop & sit down. It was nice to be off my feet as I had done about 22km at this point.

After lunch there was only a little over 6km to go, but there were a few detours around some pretty big wind falls to navigate. One of them was a quite a detour to find the trail again.

I managed to get to the hut & Arnaud & Monique were already here having camped 4km before the North Mavora campsite last night. It’s an amazing hut with 2 rooms on opposite sides each having 6 beds. In the centre is the kitchen/dining area with an inside sink, tap, bench & fireplace.

It was good to get here early enough to sort out life admin & rest the legs before tomorrows 30km+ day to get to the highway where I intend to hitch to St Arnaud.

Tuesday 04.04.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2751.5
• Official kms: 27.5km
• Garmin kms: 28.57km
• Total time: 7:58
• Calories burned: 3354
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Careys hut
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 28

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

The door into our room was like a revolving door last night. It seemed to open & close multiple times with people coming in & out, not quietly either.

This prompted me to get out of bed just after 5am. I was packed & ready to go before 7am, since it’s daylight savings it’s nice & light at this time.

The first 2km climbed steadily through the bush until reaching the open boggy area.

I chose to take what’s known as the Bullet track as it’s apparently the lesser of two evils. The trail on the other side of the river goes through bush that has a bit of windfall or so I have been told.

The next 5km was quite technical to stay out of the mud, rock hopping & picking good foot placement. I also noticed my left shoe was starting to come apart on the inside of the foot & a hole had formed.

The last few kilometres to Taipo hut were fairly straightforward although the last 500 metres was in some fairly high tussock.

What an amazing looking hut, 4 beds but the bed are doubles! There were 11 people here last night. 8 in the hut & 3 tenting. I stopped for a quick break then started walking again. It was 10km to here & its 12km to the next hut where I decided I will stop for lunch.

This next section was a lot better but still had some occasional boggy bits to negotiate. About halfway through this section my shoes small hole had turned into a good gaping 8cm hole. I will need to sew this later.

When I reached Boundary hut for lunch, Marko, Nici & Jake were sitting there having their lunch. They had come from the previous hut but had a late start. I sat & chatted with them before they started to take off. They are heading another 16km to the Mavora lakes campground. I only have another 6km to go to end my day.

It was a fast 6km on a 4wd track, reaching the hut before 3am. It’s a beautiful spot right next to the lake so i took the opportunity to get in and wash myself. Hung clothes to dry, sewed my shoes & then just relax for the evening.

It wasn’t until 6:30pm that Jen my hut mate for the evening turned up. It’s good to have some company.

Monday 03.04.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2724
• Official kms: 0
• Garmin kms: 0
• Total time: 0
• Calories burned: 0
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Greenstone hut
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 27

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

This is my first zero at a hut. Not much to report on today but hikers I have met in the past stopping by on their way through.

I sat & watched a movie on my phone as people were coming & going. I also gave the hut a really good wipe down & sweep. Lindy turned up after having done a side trip through Routeburn & she is looping the Greenstone Caples.

Around 2:30pm Marko, Nici & Jake turned I up, they stopped for about an hour before continuing on. I think that’s probably the last time I will see them on the trail.

About 4:30pm a big school group turned up. 23 students & 5 teachers from Australia. Thank goodness the students are all in tents as the hut is now fairly full with everyone else.

I’m thinking of sneaking away early tomorrow to avoid the communal area before it gets busy.

Sunday 02.04.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2724
• Official kms: 14km
• Garmin kms: 13.12km
• Total time: 3.17
• Calories burned: 1419
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Greenstone hut
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 27

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

This morning I got to wake up next to my beautiful wife. She is amazing & what an amazing thing to drive all the way here for one night & then drive back again.

We aren’t planning to leave the Airbnb until 9am & then it’s a 45 minute drive to the Greenstone carpark. Antonia is then driving back to Christchurch from there. Big day!

We got to the carpark just before 10am & talked to some hikers who were sitting there waiting for a shuttle back to Queenstown. At least 2 of them were. One Czech guy didn’t have a ride & asked Antonia if she could drop him into Queenstown. She accepted.

We said our goodbyes & I started walking. Knowing this is all over in 3 weeks & I get to see her again then. The trail was amazing, pretty much great walk standards. Todays hike is only 13km or so, so really around 3 hours.

After about 9km I went off trail to find Slip flat hut as there is no known trail up to it. It was only about 300 metres away & I found it pretty quickly.

What an amazing little hut! I also see Ladina & Alina had stayed in here 3 nights prior. I was almost considering staying here but it’s only another 4km to the big Greenstone hut where I will stop for the day have lunch & take a zero here tomorrow.

I arrived at Greenstone hut at 1:30pm. There were 2 TA hikers here having a zero today. Not long after lots of other hikers started to make there way here, mainly people doing the Greenstone Caples loop.

A few of us walked down to check out the swimming hole about a 10 minute walk from the hut. Since it was fairly cold I wasn’t brave enough, but one lady was.

I’m looking forward to tomorrow off in a hut. I’m pretty sure it’s my 1st zero in a hut.

Saturday 01.04.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2710
• Official kms: 24.5km
• Garmin kms: 22.23km
• Total time: 5:35
• Calories burned: 1574
• Body battery: 7/10
• Accommodation: Airbnb Glenorchy
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 27

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

I had a restless sleep last night. Waking at 4am & not being able to fall back asleep until after 5am, when the alarm went off at 6:30am I pushed snooze twice.

I managed to be ready by 8:15am & called an Uber to get dropped back at the start point. Unfortunately he got lost & took 30 minutes to collect me.

I finally started walking just before 9am. Following a trail a few kilometres down to Lake Hayes. From here you go round the right hand side of the lake for 4km. About a kilometre in I met Luke (a work colleague) who was out for a run with his dog.

After getting to otherside of the lake Luke met up with me again & walked with me for the next few kilometres through Lake Hayes residential area.

After saying goodbye I carried on walking until I reached the Shotover river. The trail follows the river up & then under the main bridge until reaching the footbridge 500 metres further up.

After crossing the bridge you walk back down the otherside of the river & back under the main bridge then climb steadily up to Frankton. Passing the Pak’nsave I made my way to the main shopping complex where I sat down & had sushi for lunch. Just before this though I reached the milestone of 2700km on the trail, although this was not marked.

After lunch I had less than 10km to go so I just pushed on to get this done as Antonia will be waiting in Queenstown before I finish.

The trail was around Lake Wakatipu for the last 8km. When I had just under 2km to go I noticed I was walking around a frisbee golf course. I sent a picture to Marko as he loves frisbee golf. 30 seconds later I hear someone yelling out my name from in the trees. It was Marko, he was already in there playing!

About a kilometre later Marko had short cutted through to the trail & was talking to Hamish & Pia who were having a zero. I had a quick chat to them before taking off again to meet up with Antonia.

I had reached the Foursquare where Antonia was parked, it was great to see her! I did a quick resupply & we then drove to our Airbnb in Glenorchy.

This afternoon I have spent repacking, washing clothes & getting ready for the next section & then it was nice to spend the evening having dinner with Antonia & chilling out.

I’m going to take my time cruising to Bluff now as I have set the 22nd of April as my end date.

Friday 31.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2685.5km
• Official kms: 28.5km
• Garmin kms: 31.23km
• Total time: 9:23
• Calories burned: 3589
• Body battery: 7/10
• Accommodation: Airbnb (house bus) Arrowtown.
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 27

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

This morning there was a frost again, same as the following morning. Its definitely getting colder. I was ready to leave just after 8am. Marko, Nici & Jake were 15 minutes behind me.

Todays start has the biggest climb with an elevation gain of 550 metres above the hut. It started out ok & to my surprise this climb was the easiest, it didn’t seem to take me much time at all. Reaching the top in just over an hour.

I sat & waited for Jake then Marko & then Nici to turn up which was a good 20 minutes, but then I had to take off as I started getting cold.

Now for my least favourite part of hiking, descending! It’s a 550 metre drop down to the river below. My knees always hurt with the steep drops & I feel I’m slower going down than I am going up.

After about an hour I had reached the Arrow river. The TA guide says in low flow it is quicker to walk down the river. It was slow flow so I decided to do this. It was freezing cold though & definitely numbed the feet.

Fortunately it’s not all river travel as there are some tracks along the banks that are unmarked. At one point I mistook a goat track & ended up bush bashing through matagouri. I came out worse off as my arms were bleeding from all the spikes!

After following the river for a good 4km I had made it to Macetown. First time being here for me. Brent who lives in Arrowtown had sent me a message a few days back to say that he was probably going into Macetown on Thursday & could drop off some goodies for me. He told me that he would hide a note under some rocks in the corner of the building at the end with instructions of where to find the goods.

I found the note & the bag! What a legend Brent! I sat there & scoofed those chips for lunch & drank both cans of coke!

I decided I would walk the next 13km of 4wd track out to Arrowtown. It was fast walking but also required numerous river crossings. I made it into Arrowtown at 4pm & continued walking just over a kilometre to where my Airbnb is just off the trail.

After checking into this cool house bus I dropped my pack & set off to walk a final 5km to make tomorrow quicker. Antonia is driving to Queenstown tomorrow & I won’t to be finished walking when she turns up to make the most of our time together.

Once I got to 5km I called an Uber to get a pick up & had him drop me back into Arrowtown so I could grab some takeaways.

It felt like a big day today. I’m looking forward to a good sleep & putting my feet up!

Thursday 30.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2657
• Official kms: 10.5km
• Garmin kms: 10.94km
• Total time: 5:00
• Calories burned: 2578
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Roses hut
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 27

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

The hut full of 10 people all got up about the same time. We also all left together at 8:30am, the temperature initially being -2.8 degrees. So cold!

The day started with the trail dropping to the creek & then climbing steeply before dropping down to another creek, from here it climbed really steeply up a ridge! I think the theme for this section is ‘Steep ridges’ that pretty much sums up the Motatapu trail.

Within an hour & a half I had made the 400 metre climb to the top, the 5 of us who had got there first sat down for a short break, before setting off down the other side, this next bit was a drop of 400 metres before having to climb up the next ridge which is 400 metres.

It would get steep at times but I was managing ok. I was at the top of the second climb in under 4 hours. I didn’t really stop for this one apart from taking a few photos. Hamish was sitting at the top having a break.

We started the last descent of another 400+ metres down to reach the valley. From about 2km out you could see Roses hut in the distance down in the valley.

I decided I wasn’t going to have lunch until I reached the hut. It was a steep & at times a slippery descent. Once I reached the hut I had decided that I was going to call it a day. I was initially going to walk to Macetown & camp, but we are expecting temperatures in the negatives again overnight & I only have my summer gear.

I spent a bit of the afternoon lying around on a mattress outside in the sun. 6 of us from last night are staying here, the other 4 carried on.

Surprise visit tonight! Nici & Marko turned up after a big day from Fern Burn hut. It is good to see them again!

Wednesday 29.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2646.5km
• Official kms: 16km
• Garmin kms: 16.33km
• Total time: 6:30
• Calories burned: 2955
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Highland creek hut
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 27

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

I thought I would make the most of my comfy bed this morning & didn’t roll out until 7am (yep that’s what I consider a sleep in!) after getting organised I was back on the trail just before 9am.

The initial 3km was gravel road after walking through the campground. From here it’s the beginning of the Motatapu track which takes you all the way through to Macetown just before Arrowtown.

The start of the Motatapu is quite nice & a well marked track going through farmland. This is for at least 3km before exiting through a gate in the fence line to the reserve.

The track here is mostly really good apart from a few slips & detours that have to be navigated. It didn’t seem long before I started climbing a little steeper. It’s a 500 metre climb up to the Fern burn hut where I planned to have lunch.

After coming out of the valley & into the open the track sidled around the hills & before long the hut was in sight.

I stopped for lunch inside the hut but as it was fairly cold I was off again within 20 minutes. This is where the steepest climbing began. In the first 1.5km I had climbed over 300 metres of elevation. Then it buttoned off a bit until reaching the saddle.

Beautiful views back down to lake Wanaka from here. I didn’t stop long, again because it was cold. When I started the descent I was amazed at how steep it was, following a ridge line down with drop offs either side! At one point I slipped and slid on my bum for a few meters.

Definitely a ridge not for the faint hearted. It dropped nearly 400 metres in the first kilometre! After getting to the bottom, there was one last climb of 100 metres before sidling around to Highland creek hut.

There were already 3 in the hut. 2 of the girls I had met before on the Nelson lakes section. About 6pm another 6 hikers turned up. Full hut tonight.

Tuesday 28.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2630.5km
• Official kms: 0
• Garmin kms: 0
• Total time: 0
• Calories burned: 0
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Cabin at Glendhu bay
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 27

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

A very nice relaxing zero today. Since I went shopping yesterday & did washing the day before it’s meant I don’t have to do much today other than make my next video & put my feet up.

I’ve spent most of the day streaming a series on my phone. It snowed on the hills overnight last night so it has definitely brought the temperature down a few degrees.

Back on the trail again tomorrow, starting the Motatapu, hoping to be in or past Arrowtown on Friday. I’m also looking forward to seeing Antonia on Saturday!

Monday 27.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2630.5
• Official kms: 13.5km
• Garmin kms: 15.53km
• Total time: 3:31
• Calories burned: 1050
• Body battery: 7/10
• Accommodation: Cabin at Glendhu bay Holiday park
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 26

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

No rush today as it’s less than 4 hours to my destination & check in is generally 2pm. So my plan is not to leave the holiday park until 10am.

Leaving at 10am I backtracked down for a kilometre to regain the trail. Not long into being on the trail I had reached the famous tree in the lake.

I was chatting to Gokul on the phone as I started today, they had just summitted Stag saddle! Great effort, I was giving him all the tips for the next section.

Some really great news today. Firstly Antonia is going to come down to Queenstown next Saturday to see me & I hit my target of $10,000 for #iamhope. I’ve decided to up the target, because I believe I can raise more!

The rest of the trail was similar to yesterday, bike trail & hard on the feet, luckily it was only short & I had reached my destination by 1:30pm.

I was lucky enough to get checked in upon arrival. I managed to get a good deal on this cabin & am stoked with how nice it is, especially because this is home for 2 nights.

After unpacking & getting out of my hiking gear, I set off to hitch back into Wanaka to resupply for the next section. It only took 10 minutes & I had a ride back into town.

I bought a new pair of socks & then went grocery shopping. Catching up with the owner of the store, Stu & filling him in on my journey.

After shopping I carried my two heavy bags back to the lakeside road & stood there with my thumb out. It was only another ten minutes later & I had a ride back. Getting back to the cabin at 4pm.

It was nice just to sort, organise & then relax for the afternoon, knowing that I have a day off tomorrow to put my feet up! Definitely looking forward to that.