The Backcountry hiker

Saturday 10th of June 2023

• Drive time from Christchurch – 2 – 2.5 hours.
• Walking time – 2-3 hours.
• Weather – Cold with blue skies.
• Hikers – Myself, Antonia, Barry & Nick.

It is another excellent weather weekend for a hike so I messaged a few of my hiking buddies to see who was interested in joining Antonia & I. Barry & Nick reached out to say that they were keen.

We planned to leave our house at 8:30am on Saturday, Nick was picking Barry up on the way & they got here slightly earlier.

We were all packed and in the vehicle before our scheduled departure. Stopping at BP Ravenswood for a coffee on the way. We drove to Culverdan & stopped at the bakery for breakfast & to grab a roll for lunch.

Arriving at Lewis pass car park just on 11am we could see at least another 15+ hikers (adults and children) getting ready to start walking. After Barry & I asked where they were heading (so we could avoid the masses) they told us that they would get to Cannabal gorge hut & see how they go. Leaving us with an unclear decision on what we are doing.

We started off just after 11am, walking initially on boardwalk & then descending through the Beech forest on a well graded track to the Cannabal gorge swing bridge. At this point the big group of 15 & two other ladies were just behind us.

After the bridge it was a gentle climb up to gain 100 metres before reaching the viewing area. The rest of the track was undulating from here crossing numerous slips & side creeks through permafrost before reaching the next swing bridge 600 metres shy of Cannabal gorge hut.

We then had a short sharp climb up through the beech forest before arriving into the clearing where the hut was in plain site. We could see the two ladies who passed us earlier sitting there having a late lunch. We also took this opportunity to have our lunch.

We then decided that since it looked like a nice spot to camp down by the river in front of the hut that we would. We set up camp, cut & gathered firewood from the dead trees down in the river (I had my electric chainsaw) & by 3pm after the sun had lowered enough for our spot to be in the shade we seen frost forming on our tents & gear!

It was a cold afternoon & evening, I managed to talk Antonia into claiming a bed in the hut & I would sleep in the tent alone, but also join the other 2 in tenting outside. We were all in bed by 7:30pm after hanging out around the fire trying to maintain warmth.

It was a long & cold night! I felt like I woke every hour from my cocoon with numb toes & cold knees. Ice had formed inside the tent & even on the outside of my sleeping bag. I would periodically check the temperature & it was generally around -5 to -6 degrees Celsius!

Once my alarm went off at 7am I got up & out of the tent glad that I had survived the night without it being too miserable.

I had left our cooking gear out on the picnic table overnight & it had formed ice crystals. Antonia joined me not long after from the hut & we had a coffee & breakfast before packing up & walking by 9am.

It was a cold walk out & it took until around 11am before the temperature had reached a toasty 0 degrees. We were at the car around midday & set back off towards Christchurch.

It was the coldest night in a tent I have experienced! What an adventure & definitely a memorable one at that. I’m actually looking forward to the next winter camping trip!

Sunday 26.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2617
• Official kms: 26km
• Garmin kms: 28.55km
• Total time: 7:08
• Calories burned: 1862
• Body battery: 7/10
• Accommodation: Wanaka Top 10 holiday park.
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 26

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

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Latest video from Rangitata to Twizel:

It was so nice to sleep in a real comfortable bed last night, it’s unfortunate that my body clock still got me up early though. Another luxury I got to have this morning was a hot shower!

Today I started off clean & in clean clothes. This is a rare thing & something we can take for granted sometimes.

I didn’t set off until 9am. No rush today, it’s a flat easy 26km to Wanaka with 1km to start with to obtain the trail then an additional 1km at the end to my accommodation for the night.

The whole day was pretty much bike trail all the way through to Wanaka. The sort of trail that leaves your feet sore. The scenary was magnificent though.

I also past the 2600km milestone today about 10km into my day. A little over 400km to go! Not long now.

At about 14km I had made it into Albert town, I stopped at the patisserie for a pie & a coffee. At around $15 it was ok but didn’t rock my world.

The last 14km followed the start of the Clutha River around to Lake Wanaka where I walked through town & into the local New World for dinner & breakfast supplies.

From here I had a 2.5km walk to the Top 10 holiday park where I had pre-booked a cabin for the night.

What a nice cabin at that! It seems fairly new & is a good place to enjoy my own space for the evening. I had a nice dinner of chicken rolls & pre made some chicken wraps for tomorrows lunch.

It was also nice to chat to Antonia again being in reception. I’m looking forward to an easy 14km day to Glendhu bay tomorrow where I have a cabin for 2 nights to enjoy a zero day on Tuesday.

After arriving tomorrow I plan to hitch back into Wanaka & resupply & then hitch back. I haven’t hitched yet on this journey so I hope I can get a ride!

Definitely looking forward to a day off the trail though.

Saturday 25.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2591
• Official kms: 22km
• Garmin kms: 24.52 (1.5km detour to accommodation)
• Total time: 8:05
• Calories burned: 3074
• Body battery: 7/10 (cold has now become chesty)
• Accommodation: Glamping tent in Hawea.
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 26

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

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I woke well before my alarm again. Getting up just on 6am I was ready to leave just before 7:30am

3 people turned up on dark last night & then started cooking, so kept the rest of us awake until they were finally ready for bed just before 10pm. Being a 6 bed hut one of them had to sleep on the floor.

I set off 1st this morning, the trail was an old 4wd track & was a gradual climb of 400 metres before reaching the top & then become undulating.

It was 8.5km to the summit of Breast hill & took just over 2 hours. Absolutely spectacular views from here! I was in awe of the views. I FaceTimed Antonia so I could share them with her. 30 minutes later I got up & started walking again.

It was only another 2km to the hut that most stay at from Top Timaru. This was a very new & tidy looking 8 bed hut, a different contrast from my dirt floor hut last night.

I stopped for 5 minutes, filled out the intentions book & had a big drink of water. This next section was going to be painful as I needed to descend nearly 1000 metres over 4km down a ridge line to the lake.

My knees weren’t enjoying the descent but I managed to do it in just under 2 hours after taking it slow & steady.

Once down at the lakeside it was 7.5km to Hawea township, I decided I would eat lunch at the on the spot cafe. It wasn’t until 2:30pm that I arrived there, I also picked up supplies for dinner & breakfast as my accommodation is another 1.5km walk away.

I reach ‘The Camp’ just after 3:30pm checked in to my amazing glamping tent then finally got a hot shower, washing on & now I’m chilling out with a nice glass of red wine.

Tomorrow I walk into Wanaka where I will need to purchase a full resupply for the coming week. At least my washing is done & I have clean clothes!

Friday 24.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2569km
• Official kms: 13.5km
• Garmin kms: 15.47km
• Total time: 6:21
• Calories burned: 3107
• Body battery: 7/10
• Accommodation: Stodys hut.
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 26

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

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I woke 30 minutes before my alarm at 6am, deciding to get up, I was ready to leave just before 7:30am, it was light but the sun hadn’t come up yet.

I started walking, it was a typical morning from what it has been the last few weeks, cold! Today is supposed to be a challenging hike so I’m glad I have left early to allow plenty of time.

The DOC times for Top Timaru to Stodys hut is 8 to 9 hours for 14km! Let’s see how I go today.

It started off as an easy 4wd track for a kilometre & then became trail which was rocky & rooty. It’s just over 11km to the Junction from where I started from & very undulating.

There were a few river crossings required today & this wasn’t easy as the river was still grey & running swiftly.

The trail was challenging but not as bad as I expected. Within 4 & a half hours I had made it to the junction, I sat here for a 10 minute break & had some electrolytes. It’s only 2.2km to the hut from here but over 500 metres above me! That means it’s going to be a steep climb!

The sign here at the bottom said 1.5 to 2 hours to Stodys hut. The climb felt brutal at times but also allowed for some great views. It took exactly 1.5 hours to get to the hut. I was happy with the timing.

There were two other hikers who had passed me earlier before the junction, sitting here at the hut having lunch before pushing on to the next hut. I was in 2 minds wether to push on or stay here, since it was only 1:45pm.

I decided on the later, it’s nice to do short days sometimes, so I decided to relax & watch some Netflix series pre downloaded on my phone.

It’s only 21km into Hawea tomorrow & should be fairly easy. Hoping to get there mid afternoon & have a nice real dinner tomorrow night!

Thursday 23.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2555.5km
• Official kms: 13km
• Garmin kms:13.75km
• Total time: 4:38
• Calories burned: 2083
• Body battery: 7/10
• Accommodation: Top Timaru hut.
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 26

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

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I’m considering just doing a short day today and only going to Top Timaru hut which is only 13km away. This is all weather dependent because the next section after this is mainly in the river.

Before I was ready to leave I was telling Lindy about a hard to reach prickle in my foot. She offered to dig it out & managed to do so with success!

Leaving at 8:30am I had to get cold wet feet straight away crossing the stream. From here it was a gradual climb up the trail before reconnecting with the 4wd track.

There is a total climb of 750 metres from the hut to the high point & it started straight away! Depending on where in the valley the track took me I was in & out of the sun.

As I got higher the view’s started to become amazing. At one point once I had reached the snow I seen Alina’s name etched in the snow (from yesterday) as well as Jens.

As I got a little higher I got a nice surprise, my name was etched in the snow! Alina & Ladina must have done it yesterday.

Not far from this point I had reached the saddle & just on 2 hours with another fellow hiker around the same time, there was amazing views here.

There was also cell phone reception here so I took a good 40 minute break & checked the weather & emails etc.

It was only 7km to Top Timaru hut from here so I set off to get there, it started with a steep descent where I dropped about 400 metres in the first 2km, once I had reached the valley it was a nice gradual descent.

One of the side streams I crossed had very thick grey water running down it. Something I have never seen before. After it had made its way into the main river this also turned this colour from all the sediment.

I managed to reach the hut just after 1pm & in time for some lunch. There are already two beds claimed here & a lot of gear & food. Looks like it might be 2 hunters who have flown in for the roar.

Lindy & Jake turned up just before 4pm after doing the alternate ridge track. Not long after this the hunter & his grandson turned up then 30 minutes later 2 other hunters as well as 2 more TA hikers turned up. That’s 9 of us here at this 6 bunk hut. 7 in the hut 2 tenting.

And then after writing this more turned up, it’s like tent city here tonight. Looks like it may be a race to the next hut tomorrow with at least 10 of us here heading that way.

I may be tenting tomorrow night, hopefully the temperature is a bit warmer.

Wednesday 22.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2542km
• Official kms: 20.5km
• Garmin kms: 31.04km (had to do extra 10km to bypass the river)
• Total time: 7:43
• Calories burned: 3193
• Body battery: 7/10 (best hut sleep yet, but feel like I’m getting a cold!)
• Accommodation: Tin hut
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 26

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

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I slept in until after 7am this morning. This bed has to be one of the most comfortable beds I’ve slept in. Wire with a mattress is amazing.

Antonia has been keeping me updated on the river levels & its still far to high to cross so we have to do the alternative which means over 5kms down the river to a bridge & then another 5 to 6kms back up to meet the trail.

Jake was the only other person here last night so today we are walking the detour around back to the the trail. It was about 15.5km in total to the bridge.

By the time we got to the bridge it was time for lunch so we stopped & sat down for a good 20 minutes or so.

From this point we had 6km of gravel road before meeting back up with the trail, it didn’t take long to get this done & from here it was a nice trail for a few kilometres before meeting up with the farm track.

In total we did jus over 31km for what’s supposed to be only 20km but wasn’t worth risking the river crossing.

When we arrived at the hut Lindy was there, she had just walked from the farm track, as the farmer had picked her up hitchhiking.

It was nice to get here have a dip in the river & chat with my fellow hikers. Peter whom I had met a few days back arrived just after 6pm. He decided to tent though after seeing a mouse run across my pack.

Another guy turned up at 8:30 & opted to tent as well since he still wanted to cook dinner etc. it was pretty much bed time at this point. Still figuring out what tomorrows plan is.

Tuesday 21.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2522
• Official kms: 19.5km
• Garmin kms: 20.07km
• Total time: 6:50
• Calories burned: 3004
• Body battery: 7/10
• Accommodation: Quailburn hut (East Ahuriri hut)
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 26

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

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I’m back on the trail today, heading up to a historic hut to wait for the river level to come down, hopefully tomorrow it will be low enough.

I went down to have a coffee with Shell & Stu before heading up to pack, they have been so amazing & I have really appreciated the accommodation they have provided me through the storm. They are really nice people & help TA walkers when they are able to.

I set off not long after 9:30am as it’s only a 20km day today but it is cold & wet so was hoping for it to warm up a bit first.

The first 3km was on road before turning off & following a 4wd track for 2km. The wind really picked up at this point so I stopped to put gloves & a beanie on as my hands & head were very cold.

After the 4wd track the Trail rejoined the Alps to Ocean track for a few kilometres before diverting up Freehold creek, this is where the climb really started. Today I have to climb over 900 metres of elevation from the lake to the saddle.

It was initially nice & gradual through beech forests with a bit of rock & roots to contend with. The creek was in full flow from yesterday’s rain!

I stopped at the tree line for lunch with a bit of shelter but I ate fast as I started losing feeling in my fingers. I packed up & started walking again. It took a good 20 minutes for my fingers to have feeling in them again & that was with gloves on. It was below 3 degrees but there was a fair bit of wind making it feel even colder.

The last 300 metre climb seemed to take for ever until I finally reached the top. From here it was a nice view down the valley, as I started to descend it started snowing & not just normal snow but sideways in your face snow. It would sting my eyes so I had to keep my head down for a while.

After reaching the main river & crossing over a few times & with a very fast knee deep flow i slowly made my way down the valley until I caught site of the toilet? According to my notes this hut doesn’t have a toilet?

The last river crossing was the worse it was thigh deep & running really fast but slow & steady I made it across & up to where there was a brand new toilet just before the hut. This must have been installed very recently.

This old historic hut has 6 wire bunks & 2 mattresses the other 4 bunks have carpet to place over them so you can place your airmat on them. It’s made of corrugated iron & branches. A nice place to stay.

About an hour after turning up, Jake another TA hiker turned up, we both assumed there was no one as crazy as us that would also be walking today. We shared stories of how miserable today was but how glad we both were to not be in a tent.

Hopefully tomorrow is nicer & we can cross the Ahuriri river. Antonia is going to message me with the cumics tomorrow morning.

Monday 20.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 0
• Official kms: 0
• Garmin kms: 0
• Total time: 0
• Calories burned: 0
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Stu & Shells studio unit.
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 26

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

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Today is about waiting out the bad weather, there is a lot of rain forecasted as well as strong wind gusts, here’s what I’m expecting:

Not much to report on today, it was a real zero day of doing nothing. I just streamed tv all day & kept my feet up. It has been raining a lot! The wind seems to have died down a bit.

Hopefully tomorrows a lot better & I can get back on the trail.

Sunday 19.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2503
• Official kms: 30km
• Garmin kms: 26.15km
• Total time: 6:33
• Calories burned: 2242
• Body battery: 7/10
• Accommodation: Stu & Shells studio unit.
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 25

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

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Today should be a nice easy walk along the canals to Lake Ohau. I had a couple reach out to me a week back & offer me their studio unit when I come through. Thanks Shell & Stu such an amazing offer!

It’s also forecasted to bucket down Monday afternoon through until Tuesday morning so I messaged this morning & asked if I could stay 2 nights as it looks to be nearly 100mm of rain coming. Shell said they were going to offer anyway. I feel so grateful to have this offer! There really is some amazing people out there that are willing to offer a hand & support & ask for nothing in return.

I just want to say a big thank you to all those that have helped & supported me along this journey, you know who you are. You are all amazing people!

It wasn’t until just after 9:30am that I set off, no rush today as the route I’m taking following the canals is around 26km to Ohau. I could walk back onto the official TA but that means walking around Lake Ruataniwha which was already extra kilometres the other day. I will rejoin the TA around the 15km mark after crossing a weir to regain it.

Within a few kilometres I had reached the canals where there were quite a few people fishing, funnily enough after being on the canals alone I was seeing so many fish where the fishermen weren’t just sitting in the shallows!

Since I ate a huge breakfast i decided I would walk until around 1pm before stopping for lunch. Just before this & right before the weir I met a couple of people fishing, Richard & Suz, they are staying at their holiday home in Ohau & after asking if there is any shops there they told me Twizel is the nearest. I was hoping to buy some fresh milk & Richard & Suz have offered to grab me a bottle in Twizel on their way back & drop it off to where I’m staying. More trail magic.

I sat down for lunch, this time my wraps containing fresh salad & sliced beef! Luxury! From this point it was just over 10km to my destination.

It was a nice gentle walk around the lake & at one point there was a nice little hut maybe a fisherman’s hut?

It wasn’t too long after this point that I hit another milestone. 2500km! Only a little over 500km to go, I’m really looking forward to reaching the finish line!

Being only 3km left to go & a hot day I decided that once there was only about a kilometre to go I would stop strip off into my togs & go for a dip in the lake. It was amazing! So nice to just lie there in the cold water.

I then got changed & finished off the last kilometre to Stu & Shells place. What an amazing house & the studio unit is so good, I am so lucky!

I was also invited to dinner of fresh vegetables & venison. It was delicious! They also had another couple here for dinner & we all sat & chatted until about 9pm. It was a very nice evening.

Saturday 18.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 0
• Official kms: 0
• Garmin kms:0
• Total time: 0
• Calories burned: 0
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: cabin at Ruataniwha holiday park
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 25

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

I decided to sleep in this morning, that meant I was up at 7am lol. Life admin day today I have a list of things to do which includes washing all my clothes & sitting there in a puffer jacket & togs while I wait, catch up on blogs & do my latest 2 videos as well as make a yummy breakfast of muffin splits with avocado, cheese, tomato & red onion! Yum!

I managed to complete my video of Arthur’s pass to Rangitata River before lunch & post it on YouTube. Success! chapter 15 below:

Yesterday I bumped into Simon and his team, colleagues from work who are in town for a team Christmas getaway (they all work very hard through Christmas & wait until there is a less busy time to go) & he text me to let me know they were coming through at midday & picking me up for lunch.

We had a nice lunch at the Top Hut restaurant & bar in Twizel, it was good to see some familiar faces & catch up. Thanks Simon!

After dropping me back I was back into organising mode. Sorting out food for the next section & working on Chapter 16 of my next video.

My older sister Renee who’s now living over in Aussie called me & we yarned for a good 20 minutes, it was great to catch up, we need to do it more often!

Now I’m just sitting here relaxing getting ready for tomorrow. I’ve also been trying to find accommodation in Wanaka for next Friday & Saturday night but it’s super expensive, wondering if I just wing it & see what I can find when I turn up there……

Cycling the canals.

Friday 17.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2476km
• Official kms: 57km
• Garmin kms: 60.8km (accommodation 2km off trail)
• Total time: 4:48
• Calories burned: 2379
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: cabin at Ruataniwha holiday park.
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 24

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

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I woke up early this morning, I’m intending to leave the YHA just after 8am to walk up to the bike hire place as I’m cycling to Twizel today.

After 2 coffees, breakfast & making my lunch then a bit of fluffing around I was out the door of the YHA just after 8am & made my way with my pack & my heavy chiller bag of food to Bespoke bikes.

I had arrived early & there was no one there so I called dad (I had missed a call 5 minutes earlier) & had a quick catch-up. It was good to chat to him, as we were chatting Annie from Bespoke turned up so we ended the call & I went to get my bike & everything organised.

Just on 9am I was on the bike & off on the trail. This bike was amazing, it seems like either it’s a much better bike than the Timber trail or I’m just a lot fitter. Anyway I was motoring along (without a motor). And I had the 1st 10km done in just over 30 minutes.

It wasn’t long before the rain started & I stopped to put on my raincoat. There was also a fairy strong headwind to contend with.

I stopped just after 20km to have a quick break & to get off my seat. How does anyone get use to these bike seats?

I decided from this point & since it felt fairly easy not to stop again until I hit at least 40km (I’m always adding targets lol)

After about 44km of nice riding apart from the cold wind & rain I arrived wet at the Pukaki rest area where I bought a coffee & sat in the shelter & ate my pre-made wraps. It was nice to be out of the rain.

After this it was only just over 10km to Twizel township which seemed to take no time at all! I cycled to the Foursquare where I picked up a few extra supplies then loaded these into my bike bag behind my seat & proceeded to cycle the last 5km to my destination of Lake Ruataniwha holiday park.

Arriving at 1:30pm wet & cold I was able to check in & grab my cabin which was awesome! What wasn’t so awesome was the fact my pack with all my gear & dry clothes isn’t turning up until 4pm. So I sat in the cabin with the heater going drying my wet clothes out.

At 4pm I was able to have a hot shower, get changed & then just relax with a beer before getting a ride back into Twizel to meet up with Alina & Ladina for dinner. They start off again tomorrow, I’m having a zero, hopefully I catch them again at some stage soon.

After catching up & having dinner I walked about 600 metres down the road to the pub for a few beers before catching the courtesy van the 5km back to my accommodation.

I got chatting with the lady driving the van about what I’m doing & fundraising for I am hope, she has lost 2 of her sons to suicide! Its just jaw dropping to know how common this is & how it’s still so taboo! She thanked me for what I am doing as I thanked her for sharing her story. This has been on my mind all night. It’s ok to not be ok & it’s ok to talk about it.