The Backcountry hiker

Saturday 10th of June 2023

• Drive time from Christchurch – 2 – 2.5 hours.
• Walking time – 2-3 hours.
• Weather – Cold with blue skies.
• Hikers – Myself, Antonia, Barry & Nick.

It is another excellent weather weekend for a hike so I messaged a few of my hiking buddies to see who was interested in joining Antonia & I. Barry & Nick reached out to say that they were keen.

We planned to leave our house at 8:30am on Saturday, Nick was picking Barry up on the way & they got here slightly earlier.

We were all packed and in the vehicle before our scheduled departure. Stopping at BP Ravenswood for a coffee on the way. We drove to Culverdan & stopped at the bakery for breakfast & to grab a roll for lunch.

Arriving at Lewis pass car park just on 11am we could see at least another 15+ hikers (adults and children) getting ready to start walking. After Barry & I asked where they were heading (so we could avoid the masses) they told us that they would get to Cannabal gorge hut & see how they go. Leaving us with an unclear decision on what we are doing.

We started off just after 11am, walking initially on boardwalk & then descending through the Beech forest on a well graded track to the Cannabal gorge swing bridge. At this point the big group of 15 & two other ladies were just behind us.

After the bridge it was a gentle climb up to gain 100 metres before reaching the viewing area. The rest of the track was undulating from here crossing numerous slips & side creeks through permafrost before reaching the next swing bridge 600 metres shy of Cannabal gorge hut.

We then had a short sharp climb up through the beech forest before arriving into the clearing where the hut was in plain site. We could see the two ladies who passed us earlier sitting there having a late lunch. We also took this opportunity to have our lunch.

We then decided that since it looked like a nice spot to camp down by the river in front of the hut that we would. We set up camp, cut & gathered firewood from the dead trees down in the river (I had my electric chainsaw) & by 3pm after the sun had lowered enough for our spot to be in the shade we seen frost forming on our tents & gear!

It was a cold afternoon & evening, I managed to talk Antonia into claiming a bed in the hut & I would sleep in the tent alone, but also join the other 2 in tenting outside. We were all in bed by 7:30pm after hanging out around the fire trying to maintain warmth.

It was a long & cold night! I felt like I woke every hour from my cocoon with numb toes & cold knees. Ice had formed inside the tent & even on the outside of my sleeping bag. I would periodically check the temperature & it was generally around -5 to -6 degrees Celsius!

Once my alarm went off at 7am I got up & out of the tent glad that I had survived the night without it being too miserable.

I had left our cooking gear out on the picnic table overnight & it had formed ice crystals. Antonia joined me not long after from the hut & we had a coffee & breakfast before packing up & walking by 9am.

It was a cold walk out & it took until around 11am before the temperature had reached a toasty 0 degrees. We were at the car around midday & set back off towards Christchurch.

It was the coldest night in a tent I have experienced! What an adventure & definitely a memorable one at that. I’m actually looking forward to the next winter camping trip!

Thursday 16.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2419
• Official kms: 34km
• Garmin kms: 34.45km
• Total time: 8:40
• Calories burned: 2814
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: YHA Tekapo
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 24

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

I ended up with a hut mate last night. Grâce turned up around 7pm, she is also SOBO (southbound).

I was up at 5:30am as I’m wanting to leave at 7am. This allows me 10 hours to do the 34 kilometres to Tekapo. I’m aiming to be there by 5pm at the latest.

It started off the same as it’s been most mornings lately, cold! I managed to rock hop the stream for the 1st 1.4km but couldn’t avoid it from this point so was straight in with wet feet.

The 1st 3km were pretty straightforward but then I hit a wall, literally. It was straight up! It was a steep climb of nearly 200 metres, but I felt good. I’m starting to enjoy the ups again.

After gaining the top it was a fairly flat walk for the next 15 kilometres or so before descending down to Lilybank road which was around 19km of today’s walk. I also past the 2400 kilometre point & didn’t realise until 2 kilometres later.

There was cellphone reception from this point onwards to Tekapo. I received a video message of support & encouragement this morning & it really made my day! These messages & the support i get is what keeps me going. (Thanks Denva!)

I walked along the gravel road for a few kilometres until I found a small creek to filter some water. After this I found a nice place to sit & eat my lunch of wraps, tuna, cheese & aioli.

Just before 1pm & having had 30 minutes of sitting around I was off again. It was only 13km from this point to my destination of the YHA in Tekapo. The last 3km being a walk around the lake & past the Church of the good Shepherd then into town.

I’m in a 4 bed dorm tonight, I quickly got showered & feeling fresh again after 4 days in the wilderness then went down to the Local Foursquare to resupply for the next section through to Wanaka.

I decided on an easy dinner of takeaways & am about to call my biggest supporter Antonia. 5 weeks and counting……

Wednesday 15.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2385.5
• Official kms: 14.8km
• Garmin kms: 15.59km
• Total time: 5:45
• Calories burned: 2278
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Camp stream hut.
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 24

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

Last night I had decided that I’m only going to walk to Camp stream hut. This is only 6 hours walking according to DOC times & I’ve been doing most of these in 2/3rds the time. So I decided I won’t leave until 8am.

I didn’t get out of bed until 6:40 & managed to leave right on 8am, I said goodbye to my 2 hut mates & set off to climb to the highest point on the Te Araroa trail.

It was a cold start & was initially a gradual climb following the stream. As I was going up the valley & depending what side of it I was on I would either be in sun or shade.

After about 2km the real climb started & it got a bit steeper. I felt good & just pushed on through, occasionally stopping for a drink from a stream.

Within 2 hours I had reached the saddle & felt an amazing sense of achievement. Especially doing the last few days solo. The views were spectacular!

There was reception on the top so I text Antonia, she wasn’t in a meeting so called me & we chatted for a good ten minutes. It was great to hear her voice. I must have sat there in total for 40 minutes taking it all in before setting off again.

The track down started with rock hopping to get to the ridge trail on the right. Once there it was an amazing walk with amazing views all the way down.

It wasn’t long before I was on the 4wd track & had read in the trail notes to fill up with water at the stream 700 metres before the hut as there was no water source at the hut. I filled up with nearly 5 litres of water (I’m not running out!) & walked the last 700 metres with nearly 5kg of extra weight.

Arriving at the hut just before 2pm I sat down for a late lunch before unpacking & getting organised.

This hut is tiny! But will be a good stop for the rest of today & tonight.

South Island halfway point!

Tuesday 14.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2370.7km
• Official kms: 15.4km
• Garmin kms: 16.49km
• Total time: 5:50
• Calories burned: 2635
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Royal hut
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 24

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

My alarm went off a 6am, I pushed snooze. Even though I went to sleep around 8pm I felt I could sleep a lot longer this morning. I checked my watch to see the temperature, it is 2 degrees in the hut brrr.

I managed to crawl out of bed at 6:10 & go about my morning routine. Berry & Hannah left at 7:15, I was about 30 minutes later.

Another cold start, I’m glad Antonia brought my beanie & gloves back this weekend, I felt like I needed these this morning.

Todays trail started with a 500 metre climb over a distance of 2.7km to reach a saddle. This took me a little over an hour to do, I’m starting to get use to the ups now, my knees don’t like the downs so I feel faster climbing than descending.

The views from the saddle were beautiful, I stopped for a minute to take some photo’s & videos before descending the scree slope, this would have been fun to scree run, unfortunately the scree was frozen from this morning’s frost so there was no give.

After about 6km an just over 2 hours in I sat down for a 10 minute break to have a muesli bar & apply sunscreen, yeah the sun finally showed up & it had some heat in it!

From here it was 4km to Stone hut where i decided I would stop for an early lunch today. The track through the tussock was quite hard to find a lot of the time this morning & I had trouble finding the next orange pole often, but I finally made it to Stone hut just on 11:20am.

What a beautiful spot & a really nice hut, unfortunately I need to get more distance today so had a 30 minute lunch break before setting off again.

From here it’s only 6km to Royal hut & should be under 2 hours. It was an easy trail following Bush stream all the way up until reaching the hut in just under 1 hour & 45 minutes. It was actually 1:45pm.

Berry & Hannah were the only ones here & they were just about to leave after having their lunch & a swim in the river.

After they left I took the opportunity for a bath without togs myself, it was so refreshing. I also hand washed some clothes & hung to dry in this nice heat & took advantage of the sun to fully charge all my devices using my solar battery bank.

I’m at the halfway point for the South Island & I started it 37 days ago. If I’m to keep this momentum i would be finishing in 37 days on the 20th of April, my aim though if I can do it would be to finish on the either Saturday the 15th or Saturday the 22nd of April.

Let’s see how the next 30+ days go……

Monday 13.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2355km
• Official kms: 10km
• Garmin kms: 10.73km
• Total time: 4:01
• Calories burned: 1888
• Body battery: 7/10
• Accommodation: Crooked spur hut
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 24

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

Antonia & I woke up in the Airbnb, I felt like I had a fairly average sleep last night as I woke up not feeling well rested. I think it’s also because this will be the last time I see Antonia until I finish. I’ve always had another date to look forward to but 5/6 weeks is a long time. I’m also solo for a while now.

We were packed up & left the comfort of the Airbnb just after 9am. Antonia is driving me to my starting point which is way up the Rangatata River on a gravel road, it was raining most of the drive.

We got to the car park just before 11am. It was cold & raining! I also had to say farewell to Antonia until the end. It was quite emotional for me (internally) as saying goodbye & walking solo in this weather was not ideal.

It rained for about 2 hours & I was cold! The river was up a bit & I was really careful to chose the best crossings.

It was amazing when it started to clear up, I also started to feel better when the sun came out. The valley was amazing, you could see fresh snow up on the mountains ahead.

After crossing the river one last time in this valley, I had a 120 metre climb up & over a spur before dropping back down to the river on the other side. This was the last crossing (thank goodness!).

I stopped quickly for a snack, took off my raincoat & put my hat on as it had turned from rain to hot sun! Then it was the last kilometre, but this had an elevation gain of 265 metres! It didn’t seem to take long though & the views looking back were spectacular!

As I approached the hut I could see someone outside. It was Hannah, her & Berry were the only ones at the hut, they had camped at the car park the night before & started early today.

I set about my unpacking routine & then sat down for a late 3pm lunch of salami & cheese on crackers. It’s so nice & early I may even watch some Netflix.

Sunday 12.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 0
• Official kms: 0
• Garmin kms: 0
• Total time: 0
• Calories burned: 0
• Body battery: 9/10
• Accommodation: Airbnb Geraldine
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 24

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

It was a nice sleep in until just before 8am this morning! Today is about spending time with Antonia & resupplying & repacking for the next section.

We enjoyed breakfast & a coffee in the Airbnb this morning, I put on a load of washing & we went into town while the washing was on to get the few extra groceries I needed for the next week.

Just after midday we drove back down into town & went to a cafe for a coffee & a light lunch, a bacon buttie & chip buttie! Yum.

After returning we managed to sneak in a quick afternoon nap & it wasn’t long before it was dinner again. Tonight we are going for Indian.

This Indian restaurant in Geraldine is amazing, they have one of the best menus I’ve seen & they also have an extensive whiskey selection.

Dinner was amazing & we left the restaurant at 7pm, headed back to the accommodation & just chilled out for the evening. Back on the trail tomorrow morning. Probably won’t start walking until 11am but only have a 4 hour walk.

This will probably be the last time I see Antonia until I finish. I’m looking forward to getting this last 5/6 weeks done so I can go home. It hasn’t been easy being away this long but the end is near & it’s all for a great cause.

Saturday 11.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2345km
• Official kms: 32.5km
• Garmin kms: 33.14km
• Total time: 7:42
• Calories burned: 2981
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Airbnb in Geraldine
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 23

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

We had an unexpected visitor last night. He turned up just after 9:30pm after we were all asleep. Unfortunately all 6 beds were occupied, so he had to sleep on the floor on his airmat.

The hut started to stir at just after 6am. Us three & the other three had all planned to leave at 7:30am as it’s a 32km day. Myself, Alina & Ladina are being picked up at 3:30pm by my amazing wife.

We were actually a little earlier & set off at 7:20am. The latecomer (I never got his name) jumped in one of the vacated beds & went back to sleep.

It was another cold start, about 4 degrees, but with a fast pace we soon warmed up. It was only about 7km before we met the gravel road & only 1.5 hours in. After 11km & 2 hours we sat down for a morning break. Snacks & sunscreen were needed as the sun was starting to feel quite hot.

The other 3 who left a short time after us turned up & then carried on ahead of us while we were finishing our break.

We walked the open valley for another few hours & it wasn’t long before it was lunchtime. We found the perfect spot up on a ridge that had amazing views down to lake Clearwater & views up the Rangitata. A great place for lunch.

From here we had under 11km to go so we all set off at a fast pace down towards the Potts car park. Arriving just on 3pm. We had caught up to Stephanie who had camped along the trail the night before, as well as Jen & Tomas who had just managed to secure a hitch into Geraldine.

We sat & waited for Antonia & i took the opportunity to boil some water to make a coffee, Antonia turned up just before 3:30 & as the water started boiling. It was so good to see her. I took my coffee as a takeaway.

Antonia also had apples for the girls as well as a nice healthy drink & a coke & fresh cut pineapple for me! Yum. We packed the car & set off to Peel forest where Ladina & Alina are staying.

Once arriving we said our goodbyes as they will be starting the Two thumbs trail tomorrow & I’m having a zero. If all goes to plan we will catch up for dinner in Twizel on Friday.

Antonia & I carried on to Geraldine & checked into our Airbnb which we have for two night, I got cleaned up & we went into town for pizza & burgers. It was a very nice dinner. I’m looking forward to spending time with my amazing wife & not walking tomorrow.

Friday 10.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2313
• Official kms: 21.2km
• Garmin kms: 22.67km
• Total time: 7:40
• Calories burned: 3130
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Manuka hut
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 23

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

I woke up just after 6am, then sat outside with Jen & cooked my breakfast as not to disturb the others still sleeping in the hut.

Alina, Ladina & I were packed & ready to go at 8am. It was a cold start & to make it even colder we had to zigzag the knee deep North branch Ashburton river numerous times.

It wasn’t long before we caught up to Jen who had left 20 minutes prior to us. The 4 of us stuck together & at the 2 hour mark we sat down for a morning tea break. Jens partner Tomas turned up not long afterwards.

Myself & the two girls started off again to complete the last 3.5km to reach Clent hills saddle. On the way up I managed to fall in a hole, stick my hand out, as you do, but my hand landed in Spaniard a very spikey plant that made my hand bleed all over.

About 30 minutes later we reached the saddle & also the 2300km mark for the Trail! Only 700km to go.

Also a highlight today was the 3 big scree slopes we had to walk across just after the saddle, it was amazing.

It wasn’t long before we sat next to a mountain creek for lunch, I had salami, cheese & aioli wraps & a vitasport electrolyte.

After lunch it was a slippery descent to gain the valley below, a familiar site into the Lake Heron area.

The last 6km were fast & easy walking to Manuka hut. We arrived just after 3:30pm, Stephanie was sitting inside having a snack. As no one else was here & all bunks were still free we decided to stop here & call it a day. Bob, Bronagh & Emmy turned up within an hour & claimed the last 3 beds.

It’s a 32km day tomorrow but apparently a fast easy 32km. We are leaving here at 7:30am so we can get to the car park at around 4pm. Antonia will be there & I get to spend 2 nights with her! I’m looking forward to tomorrow.

Thursday 09.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2291.5
• Official kms: 16km
• Garmin kms: 16.19km
• Total time: 3:59
• Calories burned: 2136
• Body battery: 5/10 (bad sleep)
• Accommodation: Comyns hut.
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 23

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

Last night I had a bad sleep, I felt like I was awake from around 3am. Hopefully tonight will be better. I crawled out of bed at 6:20am & started going about my morning routine.

We are being picked up by the shuttle at 8:30am & taken back to the trail head. The shuttle turned up on time & told us he had another 3 to pick up on the way, it ended up being 5 so a total of eight of us heading to the eight bed Comyns hut tonight.

We started walking just before 10am. The trail started off following alongside farmland & Glenrock stream for a while on trail until it joined a 4wd track. The weather was rain & quite windy, so not the best of days, although the forecast says it will clear up late afternoon.

The 1st 7km was a gradual climb from our starting elevation of 470m to 1190m, it seemed like quite an easy climb & even had a zig zag track at the top.

After reaching the top it was a 2km descent down to the A frame hut. Awesome 3 bed hut this one & only took 2.5 hours to get here. I definitely want to come back & stay here with Antonia after finishing the TA.

We only stopped quickly here to fill in the intentions book & then carry on as the notes on the trail app say it’s only 1.5 hours to Comyns hut from this point.

The weather has been a mix bag between side on rain & then sun where you feel like you might get sunburnt! At one point a wind gust was so strong it blew Alina sideways & she lost her balance!

Anyway, the timing was right we arrived at Comyns hut 3 hours & 59 minutes after setting off from the drop off point. It was just before 2pm. There were already 5 in the 8 bunk hut with us 3 making it 8 & a few hours later the last two from our shuttle turned up so we are 10 in the hut this afternoon/evening.

We also had a group effort to go & collect firewood, Berry & Bob were throwing huge rocks at a big log to break bits off, it was hilarious to watch & provided great entertainment.

It’s an awesome group of people in this hut tonight. The conversations were flowing & the time flew by, before we knew it it was bedtime. Leaving at 8am tomorrow, I think we are going to walk until 5pm then start scouting out a good campsite. Let’s see how tomorrow goes.

Wednesday 08.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2275.5km
• Official kms: 0
• Garmin kms: 0
• Total time: 0
• Calories burned: 0
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: cabin at Methven holiday park
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 23

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

It is so good to wake up & not have to pack up & leave! It was a very chill morning. I sat in my room until after 9am & made my 1st video. Chapter 13 St Arnaud to Boyle village. I’m glad to be playing catch up.

After this I went into the communal kitchen where Ladina had made us all a delicious breakfast of tomatoes, avocado & mushrooms on toasted bread! A great start to the morning .

We also did a combined load of washing, which meant sitting around in a puffer jacket & togs for a few hours waiting for the washing & dryer to finish.

This also gave me time to work on my next video (will post this weekend) & catch up on the blogs.

Later that afternoon we walked back into town to get the last of the supplies needed for the next few days of hiking. Ladina & I stopped for a coffee & an ice cream before walking back to the holiday park.

The rest of the afternoon was pretty relaxed. Ladina cooked dinner which was a very nice pasta & vegetable dish.

We are being picked up at 8:30am tomorrow & back out on the trail for 3 days then I’m having another zero with Antonia on Sunday! Really looking forward to seeing her again.

Tuesday 07.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2275.5km
• Official kms: 29km
• Garmin kms: 30.23km
• Total time: 7:28
• Calories burned: 2462
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: studio unit in Methven.
• Tent nights tally: 18
• Zero days had so far: 22

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

I woke up just after 6am this morning, it’s pretty light in a thin single wall tent so you generally wake up when it starts getting light.

No rush this morning as we have about 28km of road walking which should only take about 7 hours of walking or less, I’m leaving at 8am & have a pick up scheduled for 4pm to take me into Methven where I’m planning to have a zero day tomorrow.

Alina & Ladina are leaving at the same time & staying in Methven tonight but planning to get back on the trail tomorrow then do a zero in a hut & wait for me on Thursday.

After starting off we decided to stick together & go back on the trail with the shuttle on Thursday morning. Yay! I’m really enjoying their company & how positive & caring they both are.

Not much to talk about today as it was basically gravel road for the first 25km, the scenery of distant mountains was beautiful though. The feet didn’t agree much!

After 25km of road walking with a lunch break by one of the lakes included we turned off onto the Lake hill track, which is actual trail again for 3.5km before going back onto a gravel road & heading down through to the Coleridge settlement.

We made it to the lodge at 3:30 & the owner Alison was there, she invited us in gave us a cold fizzy drink each (mine was a coke) & a homemade chocolate chip cookie while we waited for the shuttle. What an amazing person & awesome hospitality. Her husband & daughter are currently doing the TA trail.

After getting the shuttle into Methven, checking into our cabins we walked into town to get dinner & supplies from the local Foursquare.

Hot chicken & a salad for me with a couple of cold beers. I then called Antonia, it was great to hear her voice! Filled out my census (it’s that time again!) & here I am typing this blog.

It’s a zero day tomorrow, I’m hoping to catch up on my videos! Oh & also stay off my tired feet for a bit. Fun fact: only 750km to go to complete this journey…..