The Backcountry hiker

Saturday 10th of June 2023

• Drive time from Christchurch – 2 – 2.5 hours.
• Walking time – 2-3 hours.
• Weather – Cold with blue skies.
• Hikers – Myself, Antonia, Barry & Nick.

It is another excellent weather weekend for a hike so I messaged a few of my hiking buddies to see who was interested in joining Antonia & I. Barry & Nick reached out to say that they were keen.

We planned to leave our house at 8:30am on Saturday, Nick was picking Barry up on the way & they got here slightly earlier.

We were all packed and in the vehicle before our scheduled departure. Stopping at BP Ravenswood for a coffee on the way. We drove to Culverdan & stopped at the bakery for breakfast & to grab a roll for lunch.

Arriving at Lewis pass car park just on 11am we could see at least another 15+ hikers (adults and children) getting ready to start walking. After Barry & I asked where they were heading (so we could avoid the masses) they told us that they would get to Cannabal gorge hut & see how they go. Leaving us with an unclear decision on what we are doing.

We started off just after 11am, walking initially on boardwalk & then descending through the Beech forest on a well graded track to the Cannabal gorge swing bridge. At this point the big group of 15 & two other ladies were just behind us.

After the bridge it was a gentle climb up to gain 100 metres before reaching the viewing area. The rest of the track was undulating from here crossing numerous slips & side creeks through permafrost before reaching the next swing bridge 600 metres shy of Cannabal gorge hut.

We then had a short sharp climb up through the beech forest before arriving into the clearing where the hut was in plain site. We could see the two ladies who passed us earlier sitting there having a late lunch. We also took this opportunity to have our lunch.

We then decided that since it looked like a nice spot to camp down by the river in front of the hut that we would. We set up camp, cut & gathered firewood from the dead trees down in the river (I had my electric chainsaw) & by 3pm after the sun had lowered enough for our spot to be in the shade we seen frost forming on our tents & gear!

It was a cold afternoon & evening, I managed to talk Antonia into claiming a bed in the hut & I would sleep in the tent alone, but also join the other 2 in tenting outside. We were all in bed by 7:30pm after hanging out around the fire trying to maintain warmth.

It was a long & cold night! I felt like I woke every hour from my cocoon with numb toes & cold knees. Ice had formed inside the tent & even on the outside of my sleeping bag. I would periodically check the temperature & it was generally around -5 to -6 degrees Celsius!

Once my alarm went off at 7am I got up & out of the tent glad that I had survived the night without it being too miserable.

I had left our cooking gear out on the picnic table overnight & it had formed ice crystals. Antonia joined me not long after from the hut & we had a coffee & breakfast before packing up & walking by 9am.

It was a cold walk out & it took until around 11am before the temperature had reached a toasty 0 degrees. We were at the car around midday & set back off towards Christchurch.

It was the coldest night in a tent I have experienced! What an adventure & definitely a memorable one at that. I’m actually looking forward to the next winter camping trip!

Monday 06.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2246.5km
• Official kms: 29.2km
• Garmin kms: 31.07km
• Total time: 8:28
• Calories burned: 2904
• Body battery: 7/10
• Accommodation: tent at campsite.
• Tent nights tally: 17
• Zero days had so far: 22

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

What a cold night. It measured 2 degrees in the hut all night. Surprisingly I slept well & wasn’t too cold.

I have to put damp cold clothes back on this morning! Not looking forward to doing this, I will leave it to the last minute so I can get walking & warm up straight away.

I left just before 8, cold & bold & ready to go. It was a slow start with the track being wet with lots of roots & some steep descending.

Within 2 hours I had reached West Harper hut, an old historic hut which has a dirt floor & tree branches as it’s structure. I sat here for 10 minutes having a break, filled out the intentions book & left a note for the girls.

After taking off again I had reached the Hamilton hut junction in under 3:30 from 1st starting, I didn’t go to the hut as it is a detour, instead I carried on down the trail. It was only 10 minutes down the trail that the track became a 4wd track, this would be the trail for the rest of the day.

It seemed like I crossed the Harper river numerous times following the trail until it stayed on the true left for a few kilometres passing by the Pinnacles, what a spectacular site!

Not long after this I crossed the Harper one last time, followed the trail for a kilometre or so & then crossed over the Avoca river, none of today’s river crossings went over knee deep so that was good.

It was only 8 kilometres from this point following the river mainly on a stop bank to the campsite, I arrived here at 4:30 & got everything organised for the evening. Managing to dry out last night’s wet gear.

2 others turned up going Northbound. They are from Sydney. It was nice chatting with them over dinner.

It was a nice surprise that Alina & Ladina turned up just before 7pm, they walked the whole track today (37km). It was good to see them again. We sat around chatting until we went to bed. Lots of road walking tomorrow but I’m looking forward to getting it done & having a zero on Wednesday.

Sunday 05.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2218
• Official kms: 13km
• Garmin kms: 14.42km
• Total time: 4:44
• Calories burned: 1740
• Body battery: 6/10
• Accommodation: A frame hut.
• Tent nights tally: 16
• Zero days had so far: 22

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

Today I am starting off at 9am. Ladina & Alina have decided to do a zero in Arthur’s pass as they don’t want to walk in the rain today. They will catch up to me by Wednesday.

Marko arrived at 8:45am & we all said our goodbyes to the girls as they are walking up to the Sanctuary backpackers. Antonia, Matt, Marko & myself then drove to Klondyke corner where I was dropped off.

Matt has lent me his hiking poles for the rest of the journey as mine are problematic. Once they left I started my wet & cold road walk all the way to Cora Lyn. This was 7km & I started regretting setting off solo today as the weather is absolutely miserable!

Another kilometre up the road I came to Bealey hut, a little 6 bunk hut not far off the main road, there were two girls here that had stayed last night but weren’t sure whether they would walk in the rain or not. I stayed for a good half an hour to get some warmth & stay out of the rain.

I messaged Antonia as I was already missing her, she messaged back to say she’s going to take next Monday off so we can do a zero together on Sunday! I almost cried, I was so happy! Something to really look forward to.

This got me pumped to do the climb up & over Lagoon saddle to get to the A frame hut. It was still raining but the first few kilometres were in trees so I have some reprieve from the rain.

Once out in the open however was a different story! It was back to being rain & cold. Once I reached about 1200 metres above sea level the rain turned to snow. It was beautiful but chilly!

I continued on until I reached the hut around 2pm & spent the rest of the afternoon/evening trying to keep warm. There is no heating in this hut as it’s a basic shelter. With it being 2 degrees inside I was tucked in my sleeping bag for most of the afternoon.

After dinner & a hot cup of tea the only thing I could do was get back in the sleeping bag, try to stay warm & go to sleep, hopefully i warm up in the morning!

Saturday 04.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2205km
• Official kms: 12.5km
• Garmin kms: 13.71km
• Total time: 3:52
• Calories burned: 1623
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Bach at Arthur’s pass
• Tent nights tally: 16
• Zero days had so far: 22

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

The day started off overcast & drizzly. I had to put my wet clothes back on this morning. Goat pass hut is a nice 20 bed hut but lacks a fireplace, at least it’s only a Nero today.

The morning started off overcast & misty, fortunately no rain!

Within no time we had reached Minga biv. There were 2 guys here that had stayed last night getting ready to leave.

After a quick chat we continued on & after a few kilometres started a small climb up Dudley knob. Matt, Ladina & Alina decided to stop for a short break, I decided to continue on as my legs were feeling good & I was looking forward to getting out.

It wasn’t long before I hit the open river bed & Matt wasn’t too far behind. After crossing over the Bealey river Matt & I waited for the other 2.

It was a short 3 kilometre walk from here to Klondyke rest area where Antonia was waiting. It was so good to see her!

It was only midday & we drove into Arthur’s pass, checked into the Bach Matt had organised & went across to the cafe for some lunch, coffee & an ice cream!

The afternoon was spent repacking for the next section, drying gear out & typing up my blogs, before an early dinner at the Wobbly Kea & guess who was sitting there having dinner? Marko!

He’s heading into Christchurch tomorrow & Antonia has offered him a lift.

Just before bed we got a visit from a cheeky Kea, I lay on the ground to take photos, it tried to bite my fingers.

It’s been fun doing this section with Matt. Tomorrow Ladina, Alina & myself set off again for the next section. Starting at 9am so a nice sleep in.

Friday 03.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2192.3
• Official kms: 18.3km
• Garmin kms: 21.68km
• Total time: 7:24
• Calories burned: 2810
• Body battery: 7/10
• Accommodation: Goat pass hut.
• Tent nights tally: 16
• Zero days had so far: 22

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

Such an awesome sleep in the tent last night! The one downside though is the condensation on the inside of the tent so you never really get to dry it out properly.

Matt, Alina & Ladina turned up just after 8am from their campsite & we headed off towards the Otira river.

Today we plan to cross over walk up the road to the Morrison footbridge & then head up the deception valley to Goat pass hut. As we hears that the track along the river is dodgy. It only took us an hour to reach the footbridge.

From here the DOC sign stated that it was 9 hours to Goat pass hut! This was disheartening as it was just after 9am & only 15 kilometres from this point.

The start of the trail was quite nice & mainly track, it was a beautiful valley! As we got further up it did get a little more technical with climbing over rocks & boulders.

We stopped for lunch at 12:30 for 30 minutes before carrying on to complete the last 4 kilometres. About 2km up we stopped again briefly at the Upper Deception 6 bunk hut. It had just started raining so we took the opportunity to put pack covers & raincoats on. Unfortunately that meant no photos from this point.

With 2km left & 300 metres of elevation to climb we set off in the rain to climb over multiple rock’s & boulders as well as zig zagging the stream. This would be quite fun in good weather but at this point I was over it & was happy when we reached the hut just after 3:30pm.

It was good to get dry & into warm clothes, have something to eat & then organise gear & food etc.

Two others have turned up so it looks like there is only 6 of us in this 20 bed hut tonight.

I’m looking forward to tomorrow as I get to see Antonia & spend a night with her in Arthur’s pass. Matt has organised a Bach for the 5 of us to stay in right in the main centre.

Hope this rain stops!

Thursday 02.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2174
• Official kms: 32.5km
• Garmin kms: 34.96km
• Total time: 10:40
• Calories burned: 3708
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Tent
• Tent nights tally: 16
• Zero days had so far: 22

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

We slept in this morning. I woke at 6:15am. I felt like it was a good sleep! I’m missing Antonia this morning & am looking forward to seeing her on Saturday.

The plan is to leave at 8am today & find a camp spot after about 28 kilometres.

We left on time as planned & I felt a bit slow for the first 10km as my feet were sore. About 4km in we reached Cameron hut a 4 bunk hut with only 1 useable bunk. Still plenty of camping around it. We stopped here for a few minutes to sign the book before carrying on.

About 8 kilometres in we stopped for a 15 minute break, I took this opportunity to take painkillers for my feet. After continuing on it was only another 1.5 kilometres to Harpers Biv & another 1.5 kilometres from there to Harpers pass itself. This is where we crossed from the East coast to the West coast.

It was a steep descent down the other side which for me was slow going. After dropping about 400 metres it seemed to even out a bit.

We decided to not stop until Locke Stream hut for lunch, it was around 1:30pm when we reached the hut & stopped for a good 30 minutes.

After leaving Locke stream it was pretty fast going, we did the 8.5 kilometres to Kiwi hut in under 2 hours where we had our last break.

After this it was 9 kilometres & 6:40pm before we actually stopped to camp, unfortunately the spot I chose for us didn’t actually fit my tent which takes up a lot of space.

I ended up continuing nearly another kilometre down the trail before finding a suitable spot.

I set everything up, got dinner on & before I knew it the time was 8:30pm! Not much downtime tonight.

A good sleep is in order after todays long day. Fingers crossed….

Wednesday 01.03.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2141.5km
• Official kms: 27.5km
• Garmin kms: 27.13km
• Total time: 7:48
• Calories burned: 2868
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Hurunui no 3 hut.
• Tent nights tally: 15
• Zero days had so far: 22

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

Surprisingly I had a pretty good sleep last night. We are setting off at 7am this morning. Today should be just over 27km & fairly easy walking.

The morning started off quite misty & a little cold. It didn’t seem to take long before it warmed up.

The open valley lasted a few kilometres before we entered the bush, it stayed this way up & over kiwi saddle & down until we reached the head of lake sumner about 11 kilometres from starting.

We re-entered the bush not long after, this was the last time we would be in the bush before we decided to head straight up the valley to the Hurunui hot pools.

Once we got there Ladina & Alina were keen to get straight into the hot pools, Matt & I not so much. The two of us decided to keep going as it was only 5km to our destination of Hurunui no 3 hut from here.

We reached the hut in just over an hour & before 3pm. There was only 3 others here. Once the 2 girls turned up we went down to the river for a swim, it was nice & refreshing!

It was so hot that our clothes, shoes & socks dried in no time.

It was such a nice afternoon/evening to just relax! Hopefully tomorrow’s weather is just as good!

Tuesday 28.02.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2114
• Official kms: 27km
• Garmin kms: 27.62km
• Total time: 7:17
• Calories burned: 3141
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Hope kiwi hut.
• Tent nights tally: 15
• Zero days had so far: 22

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

It was nice waking up this morning at home, next to Antonia & getting into the spa before getting ready. We are leaving home at 7am. Matt is meeting us at our place then also.

We were packed & ready to go by 7am & set off with a quick stop at the BP wild bean cafe in Ravenswood 1st for a coffee each. The next stop was Culverdan where we had a pie & bought a sandwich to take for an easy lunch on the trail.

We arrived back at the Boyle village car park not long after 9am, we said goodbye to Antonia who will meet us in Arthur’s pass on Saturday & started walking initially on road for just over 1km before dropping down into the Boyle river riverbed.

This track named the Tui track is 12km of trail that starts following the river then up off the river before joining the Hope kiwi track.

Once on the Hope Kiwi track Matt & I walked for about a kilometre before stopping for some lunch & a 15 minute rest.

Not long after this I hit another milestone 2100 kilometres!

Matt & I continued on to Hope halfway before stopping again for a quick break, Alina & Ladina had left a message for me in the book. We then carried on to complete the last 7 kilometres to Hope Kiwi lodge. Arriving just after 4:30pm.

Ladina & Alina were there! So good to see them & I’m glad they waited for me. It was a nice chilled afternoon, we are leaving at 7am tomorrow to get to Hurunui no 3 hut early, the girls also want to go for a dip in the hot pools on the way.

Sunday/Monday 26/27.02.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2087
• Official kms: 0
• Garmin kms: 0
• Total time: 0
• Calories burned: 0
• Body battery: 9/10
• Accommodation: Home!
• Tent nights tally: 15
• Zero days had so far: 22

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

It’s been an awesome few days off. Sunday we dropped Mark to the airport & Antonia & I spent the day together relaxing & enjoying each other’s company.

The dogs also loved it as they like when we are both home together so they can just lie down next to us.

Monday was back to work for Antonia & I spent all day preparing for the next stage with food etc. Finishing blogs, trying to catch up on my videos (I have the Nelson lakes one yet to make). I have completed the Pelorus bridge to St Arnaud below:

Our neighbours Warren & Maureen came over for dinner & we had a bbq & a few drinks. Then it was off to bed at 9pm as we are leaving here at 7am to drive back up to Boyle village & start the next section. Matt is joining me & the two girls should be at the same hut tonight.

Every time I come home I don’t want to leave! I’m so close to finishing now so need to carry on. No reception again for a few days so stayed tuned……

Saturday 25.02.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2087km
• Official kms: 29.7km
• Garmin kms: 30.75km
• Total time: 8:01
• Calories burned: 3405
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Home! With Antonia
• Tent nights tally: 15
• Zero days had so far: 20

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

Today I get to see Antonia! So happy, I’m looking forward to a couple of days off at home with her. This is also Marks last day on the trail, he flys home tomorrow. Ladina & Alina are also unsure of their plans, I have really enjoyed their company & hope I can hike with them in the future.

Oh & two others turned up last night just as we were going to bed at 8:30pm. They had come all the way from Blue lake hut, that’s over 40km including doing Waiau pass! They said the pass was dangerous with ice & no visibility so I’m glad we did it the day before!

Just to be out early enough we are leaving at 7am with an aim to be out by 3pm.

It was a cold & overcast start to the morning, we all set off at a good pace & made it up to Anne saddle within 2 hours where we stopped for a 10 minute break.

After starting off again in was a long slow descent (my weakness) I ended up a little behind the other 3 & once on the open flat valley I could see them within a 100 metres or so in front of me.

We carried on until Boyle flat hut before stopping for an early lunch. At this point I walked on a little bit to do the last little climb & sit under a tree for lunch while the other 3 went across the swing bridge for lunch.

From here it being only 12 kilometres to the car park I was excited to get out & see Antonia, only stopping to talk to people who were walking in either for their weekend hike or NOBOs (Northbound Te Araroa hikers).

Within the last 4 kilometres the 4 of us were all back together & walked out & finished this section together which is awesome!

It was sad to leave the 2 girls behind but also good to be going home for a few days. Alina & Ladina are staying at Boyle & camping the night then carrying on from there tomorrow. I am having 2 zero days at home.

Hopefully they will do a couple of side trips to hot pools on the way through Harpers pass & I can catch up.

Antonia, Mark & I got home, showered & went out for a nice meal before relaxing back at the house for the evening.

This has been an amazing 6 days doing Nelson lakes section.

Friday 24.02.2023

• Te Araroa kilometres done: 2056.8km
• Official kms: 26km
• Garmin kms: 26.22km
• Total time: 5:39
• Calories burned: 2113
• Body battery: 8/10
• Accommodation: Anne hut
• Tent nights tally: 15
• Zero days had so far: 20

https://givealittle.co.nz/fundraiser/walking-te-araroa-3000km-for-the-key-to-life

Track me live here:

https://aus-share.explore.garmin.com/curtiss

It rain almost all night but I stayed warm and dry in the tent. My new air mattress worked a treat, I didn’t lose any air!

After getting organised & packing up I was ready to go at 8am, Ladina & Alina told me to start as they weren’t ready & they would catch up, I was happy to wait but decided that I might as well. Mark was also not quite ready & said he would be a few minutes behind me.

I felt I started off slow but then found my rhythm. It was beautiful open valley & it wasn’t until 12 kilometres in that Mark & Liz were just behind me, we walked together for the rest of the day.

I only stopped to pee, other than that we walked the 26 kilometres without a break, I had a muesli bar & lollies on the go but knew that we would be at the hut not long after midday. The thought of a hot drink & hot food with a hot fire was motivation enough to just get there.

I arrived at the hut just before 2pm, Mark & Liz somehow took a wrong turn & were about 15 minutes later.

It was good to get here early & dry the tent out, get the fire going & have hot noodles & a hot chocolate in the warmth. Alina & Ladina turned up about an hour later & were happy to have a nice warm hut to come to.

There is currently only 1 other person here, Michael from Switzerland as well as us 5. Anne hut is a big 20 bed hut. Let’s see if we have more hikers turn up today?